Our guide from Gjirokaster had very kindly found us a reasonably priced transfer to our next destination, Himare. Our host was also kind enough to allow us a late checkout, which gave us time for one final swim and the chance to say goodbye to Barbara and Mendu, who had given up on fishing for the day and instead wanted to talk about the Belgian football team.
There do not appear to be many roads along the southern coast. Ours followed the SH8, hugging the coastline as it twisted and turned its way north. Once you leave the main towns behind, the countryside becomes incredibly green and surprisingly rural.
We had seen very little rain since arriving in Albania, but as we drove through the small village above Borsh and began our descent towards the coast, the rain started to fall. It is always a little unnerving driving beneath unprotected cliff faces. Rain loosens the rocks and there was plenty of evidence that they occasionally find their way onto the road. In one place, part of the it had already disappeared down the hillside.
By the time we arrived in Himare, the sun was shining once again.
Our apartment is a little smaller than the last one, but it has everything we need, together with wonderful views across the headland and Potami Beach, which was one of the main reasons we chose to come here.
Himare is quieter than Sarande, which was beginning to get much busier by the time we left. Then again, July and August are busy almost everywhere.
Potami Beach is quite unusual because two freshwater springs flow into the sea, one at either end of the beach. Stepping into the water there is like climbing into an ice bath. As you swim through the colder water, you can almost feel your senses sharpening. It is invigorating rather than uncomfortable.
Since arriving in Albania, we seem to have made it our mission to find the best places to swim, and so far Himare is at the top of the list. The beach is made of smooth pebbles rather than sand, and together with the constant flow of freshwater, the sea is beautifully clear.
It becomes too hot to do very much during the afternoon. There was a time when we would happily have stayed out in it all day, but now we retreat to the apartment and the air conditioning before heading back out for an evening walk.
We have also discovered a wonderful little restaurant tucked away beneath the shade of olive trees called Stolis Taverna, where we have already eaten several times.
The promenade is about a fifteen minute walk away, with cafés, bars and restaurants lining the waterfront opposite the small harbour.
Life has been wonderfully relaxed here, and we have both enjoyed slowing things down.
Dream Chasers 