Easter in the Derbyshire Peak District

We had decided to meet up with Christien, Seb, Ally and Arlo one more time before we set off on our travels again and Ally had found what looked to be a cute little hide away for us all to meet at.

Our journey was just over a couple of hours, across a surprisingly quiet A14 and M1 and then along a few single track roads, bringing us out in Buxton and then a few minutes further to “Wild Hive Callow Hall”, an old stately home that had not long been refurbished, sitting in the middle of an uninterrupted vista, nestled in the Derbyshire Dales, which was a very welcome site.

We had arrived 5 minutes after Seb, Ally & Arlo and although cold the sun was shining. Christien was about 40 minutes away, giving us enough time to enter the easter egg hunt something none of us had done for a long while. It would take about 2 hrs heading out across the dales and along pretty ravines (perfect for Arlo to stretch his legs) to collect the 13 letters from the 13 cryptic clues we had been given and then solve the riddle. As soon as Christien arrived, we filled him in and set off. We only struggled to find a couple of the letters that were well hidden, behind some well crafted clues, but it was a good giggle, which took us through many fields that were full of bouncing lambs whom were both apprehensive and curious of our little band of would be sleuths. It’s another first for us having never been to this area before and I must say it’s rather beautiful.

We had booked a table at the restaurant, when Ally made the hotel booking, which was just as well, as it was very popular. The food and service were both good with the menu offered only what was produced within the 100 acre estate. After dinner we setup in the big library with the open fire, for some board games, which is always very competitive, well between Ally and I, but good humoured. It had been a long day for us all and Christien was also still recovering from his lads ski-trip so we didn’t stay up too late.

The following morning we all met for a late breakfast In the small library, so that Arlo could join us too, for a very hearty breakfast, unfortunately it was raining so we took Arlo for a quick spin around an adjoining field and said our afternoon goodbye’s to the guys. Rach and I were in no hurry to get back, so decided to take a good walk through the fields before heading back to Hartford.

A trip to the dentist

Rachel & Keith met us for lunch at “The Cock” in Hemingford Grey, which is a local favourite of ours. It’s in a lovely spot surrounded by thatched cottages, serving some great food. We had a good catch up and it was nice of the guys to take the long drive up to see us.

We arrived in Little Fenton, North Yorkshire on Thursday, Chris and Lesley were away on a cruise and had very kindly offered us their beautiful barn to stay in, as the guest room at Seb & Ally’s isn’t quite finished yet. After settling in Seb popped in on his way home from work, for cuddles and kisses, before heading home further up the lane. The following day we all set off in the car to take Arlo for a good long walk, with the promise of a good lunch at the other end, then it was back with the guys, for a grand tour and although there’s still some more work to do, the place looks fabulous! The last time we saw it, it was at ground level and they were living in the static caravan to the side of the house.

As part of the trip, I would also be spending time with Seb in a professional capacity and I’d be lying if I wasn’t just a little anxious, as this sometimes uncomfortable dental journey started nearly 3 years ago. He’d squeezed me in to begin my ceramic implant treatment plan, with his friend Fabi, another biological dentist over from Munich, working with him. My session however turned out to be bone augmentation, as unfortunately there wasn’t enough bone for the first 4 planned implants to go into and so frustratingly meaning that, we will try again in 4-6 months when hopefully the new bone has regrown. It was pretty sore for a good few days after but I had remembered to bring my blender. Seb & Ally were busy for most of the week, so other than some fresh walks along very quiet roads, with open fields it was a rest & recuperation week, while Rach worked. We spent time with Seb and Ally towards the weekend, before heading back down to Hartford. That weekend we celebrated Rachel’s birthday at the Old Bridge, which was good fun with great food.

A weekend in Braintree, with a trip to Maldon

We’ve been making the best of our weather windows whilst in Hartford, which has been a mixture of cold and sunny, together with some torrential rain, the later of which caused the river Ouse to burst its banks again, so much so that it’s no longer a spectacle for us, to be fair though, there’s been widespread flooding across the country. The birds have been pretty vocal, delivering their enchanting little melodies, that never fail to make me smile every morning.

Our good friends Jon and Jo extended a weekend invitation, which is always fun and involves plenty of long walks with Ozz off the beaten track. We went out for dinner at a rather good Italian restaurant, which was a fun evening and the following day, that was both sunny and not too cold we decided to head east to Malden, which is famous for its salt and sits on the Blackwater estuary, where barges still sail up the Thames into London. It’s pretty old too, dating back to the 10th Century, with some interesting buildings that adorn the small narrow streets.

We’d chosen a busy weekend to visit as we discovered, with the local rowing club taking to the water to race each other, in some old wooden row-boats that looked a real handful to manage but made for compelling viewing, well for us anyway, Ozzie wasn’t the slightest bit interested and was quick to move us on as a good walk was what he’d come for. It was an interesting day walking around and was a first time visit for Rach and I.

Before we left we went to a hidden little fish restaurant, where those in the know went to sample the catch of the day, which was well received, after a day exploring in the fresh sea air.

After an early morning walk, the following day with Jo and Ozz, reflecting on an enjoyable weekend, we headed back to Hartford.

All Saints Church & An overflowing River Ouse – Hartford Cambridgeshire

Leaving Mauritius. Back to the UK for a while.

As our time at #3 Les Canonniers came to an end and with commitments in the UK, we closed the door for the final time, reflecting on the wonderful three months we spent in Mauritius. Our daily routine of gym workouts, yoga, swimming, and strolls along the beach left us feeling very fortunate. We’ve met some incredible people, both locals and fellow travellers, and though moving on was a bit sad, we’ve learned that leaving on a high is better than overstaying.

Arriving at the airport a good two hours early, somewhat of a personal achievement for me, we returned the rental car, navigated the busy airport, and boarded our flight, where we weren’t one of the last to board. The flight, delayed by about an hour, presented some turbulence over the Indian Ocean due to the recent cyclone. Nevertheless, we both managed to get some sleep during the 13-hour journey, and we touched down in a chilly London Gatwick, a stark contrast to the temperatures we’d grown accustomed to during our time away.

After a train to Huntingdon and a short taxi ride, we reached my parents’ place,who were both pleased to see us. The following day, Seb, Ally, Arlo, and Christian gathered for a heartwarming get-together and dinner. My father, who hasn’t been in good health, seemed to perk up with all his guests, especially Arlo, which added to the joy.

The subsequent week involved much-needed haircuts and a stay at the Harbour Hotel in Guildford. While Rachel attended team meetings, I relished my time decorating Christian’s apartment, with him in Wokingham. On Thursday, we moved on to Cobham, staying with Rachel and Rhubarb, the perfect hosts who made the visit not only enjoyable and great fun. We even celebrated my birthday at a delightful gastropub in Weybridge, along with a special walk for the other birthday boy, Rhubarb, who turned 14!

Cyclone Balal

The weather has indeed taken a turn. January to March signifies the onset of the rainy season, and it seems to have arrived all at once. Since we arrived in October, there has been barely a breath of wind, but that changed with the build-up and arrival of Cyclone “Balal.” Having almost experienced a devastating hurricane before, I knew the drill and stocked up on essentials.

On Sunday, we went for an early morning swim, sensing the strange swells developing, moving us around like a drain emptying. As we got out, the rain started to fall while we walked the beach and watched the last of the small boats being pulled out of the water by their respective pickup trucks—some on trailers and others just pulled out and tied to trees.

Monday morning brought news that the cyclone was still tracking between us and Reunion Island. With our housekeeper’s arrival, we decided to head to the beach for a walk, knowing we might be stuck indoors for a while. As soon as we got there, the heavens opened with rain that stings as it hits you—good fun, though, and except for a French couple we see most mornings, we were the only ones around. We waited for a break in the weather and then rushed back to the car, luckily, as we’re staying only 5 minutes from the beach, we crept back home as the roads were already flooded.

The heavy rain, propelled by high winds, arrived late that afternoon. Situated on a higher point, our first-floor apartment is well-furnished and secure, making our mandatory curfew painless. Fortunately, Mauritius was spared the full impact of the cyclone, and apart from a minor power outage, which considering the island’s overground power cables, we got very lucky! The curfew ended at midday on Monday, and we took a drive to assess how our little corner of the island and the beach had weathered the storm. We were fortunate, with scattered debris, but the sea had eroded the beach somewhat and claimed several of the beautiful trees. The normally inviting water had also turned into a thick soup, with vegetation and rubbish strewn across the beach. The north of the island, fared much better than the south, which tragically lost a number of people to the storm.

A boat trip

Though perhaps not as inquisitive and active as in some of the other countries we’ve visited, life here moves at a slower pace, centered around the water and everyone enjoys it with locals flocking to the beaches every weekend for fun and family cookouts. We’ve genuinely enjoyed our time here, meeting different people and learning from Mauritian and expats about the island’s history and how things work here.

Our boat trip got canceled early in the week, but fortunately, we were able to reschedule. After leaving the apartment at 7:15 am, we arrived in Grand Baie 10 minutes later and and then sat around waiting to be picked up….Rach has to lie to me so we arrive on time; my timekeeping is still rubbish!. Grand Baie is the main hub in the north, with small boutiques, restaurants, and a casino, also the best place on the island to buy fish. The small tender took us from the beach to the 50ft catamaran, on which we’d spend the day. With a small group, we headed out of the harbor towards our first destination, Coin de Mire (Gunners Quoin), the island we spent our first two months looking out to every day. We arrived some 45 minutes later and anchored on the sheltered side of the island.

All the small islands are protected wildlife areas, except for the two we’d visit later in the day, completely off-limits to locals and tourists alike. There was an opportunity to dive in and see fantastic tropical fish feeding around the coral heads before heading east across some very choppy water. About an hour and a half later, we pulled into a beautiful sheltered bay with turquoise waters, wedged between two small islands, Île Plate (Flat Island), where we’d spend an hour or so exploring while the captain and his team prepared lunch. The island is about a square mile and has some beautiful white sandy beaches running around it. One of the first things we noticed was the Paille en Queue (Tropic Bird) performing their frantic aerial displays with their long wisp of a tail, mesmerizing! Lunch was some delicious barbecued fish, which we both enjoyed. After a long leisurely lunch, we headed over to Île aux Gabriel (Gabriel Island) to find a shaded spot under a Filao tree to watch the aerial displays and stare out towards the mainland. Sadly, the fantastic wide beaches that once surrounded both islands are slowly eroding. Back on board the boat, we made our 20km journey back through the choppy waters for what was a very enjoyable and quick 2hr return leg back into Grand Baie. A great day!

Chateau de Labourdonnais, Pietra Both and a boat trip

We’ve fully embraced island life, with busy mornings of yoga, swimming, and beach walks, followed by afternoons spent away from the sun. Rachel’s been occupied with work, while I’ve enjoyed some reading. Food shopping involves visits to small roadside sellers for fresh produce, and for everything else, there’s the mall just a ten-minute drive away.

During one of our day outings, we explored the Chateau de Labourdonnais, a beautifully restored Victorian colonial building surrounded by a wonderful estate with majestic trees. The house, arranged as it was in the 19th century, offers an intriguing stroll and hosts what could be the island’s top restaurant. It also produces renowned rum from the surrounding cane and fruit trees. As you drive around the island, the mountains on the east side catch your eye, especially one in the Moka mountain range named “Pietra Both” after an 18th-century Dutch governor. From a distance, it appears as if someone precariously placed a head on top of the peak.

Venturing south to Blue Bay (a 1.5-hour drive from Point aux Canonniers), we found a beautiful beach extending to a protected reef and marine park. Our boat trip took us crawling across a healthy reef, along the southeastern shoreline to Egret Island, and then back to Île des deux Cocos. Here, we enjoyed a delicious fish curry on the beach, watching waves crash against the reef about 500 meters out. Our half-day trip wrapped up with snorkeling on a vibrant and healthy reef teeming with colorful tropical fish, both big and small. Happy New Year!

Pointe aux Canonniers & Mon Choisy Beach

After our six weeks at the apartment in Bain Bœuf, it was time to move on, and we were definitely leaving on a high. It has been the perfect spot for us, from a pleasant stroll up Macumba Lane, past the industrious weaver birds that never seem to tire, to greeting and checking out what the fishermen have brought in from their early morning foray, with a colorful chap ready with his rusty old scale. Most of the small sloops don’t have an engine, instead opting for oars or a long punting stick doubling as both means to propel the small craft, some also with a hook on the end, which I assume is used to help bring the traps to the surface, to aid the diver. Apparently, one of the guys clears the cage of fish while the other chap (usually fishing as a pair) collects algae and sponges that are used to re-bait the trap overnight for the following day’s pick up—a tough way to make a living!

After bidding farewell to some of the people we’d seen most days for the final time, we headed back to the apartment for a leisurely breakfast while we waited for the rental car to be dropped off. We arrived at Les Canonniers (Point aux Canonniers), which was a 15-minute drive northwest, where our gracious host was waiting to welcome us to our new home for the next month. It’s a little larger than our last, newly built, and we are its first tenants. It’s in a great location and very quiet, with just the sound of the birds—perfect!

We’ve had a few tropical downpours, where if you’re out on the road, you need to be careful that you’re not marooned, as many of the roads flood. Unless you’ve got a truck with good engine clearance and not a small hire car, the roads become impassable. But apart from a couple of washouts, it rains hard and fast for a short while, leaving the sun to work its magic and clear the way, driving temperatures up by an extra 5 degrees. As I write this, today is the summer solstice, the longest day of the year, and I feel very grateful when I think that in the Northern Hemisphere, it’s the shortest. Merry Christmas!

Where we’re staying over Christmas and the New Year

https://abnb.me/mdkHhHoETFb

The birds, a quick visit to Port Louis and the south

There’s a lot of wildlife here, and I’m getting used to the turtles accompanying me on my early morning swims. Outside of the ocean, I’m under the spell of the beautiful little birds, many of which you can only hear and catch fleeting glimpses of their striking vibrant colors as they go about their frantic little lives.

We spent the last few weekends out looking at potential next places to move to, which hasn’t been an easy endeavor as everything on the small island over the festive season is either beyond our budget or already booked. After drawing a blank with all of the usual online sites, Rachel joined the local Facebook rental group on the off chance and posted an ad with what we were looking for. After a few busts, Sabrina came up trumps with what is to be our next apartment, which we’re both relieved and excited about.

One of those busts took us to the southern end of the island, and after quickly ruling it out, we decided to take a look at the Rochester Falls. Contrary to what the tour guide tells you, unless you have a good 4×4, it’s not possible to traverse the terrain in a Suzuki Swift. So, abandoning the car 100 meters from the top, Rach and I made the short walk down to the volcanic columned falls, which was well worth the visit. During the dry season, the falls are more like a dribble, but as we’ve had a few tropical downpours, we got to see the spectacle at its best.

On another day, we decided to take a quick look at Port Louis, the country’s capital. We spent some time there walking along the dock, which is essentially an outdoor shopping complex that wraps around a crescent-shaped harbor. It was interesting watching people of different nationalities milling around. However, I’m not a shopping fan, so we moved across the road to have a quick look at the financial district and the old colonial-looking government house before weaving our way out of this busy city, which, as we discovered, is the capital of the most densely populated country in Africa. Still really enjoying island life, though.

Some small, hypnotic, Mauritian birds.

Island Life

And just like that we’ve been here nearly a month now and I’m not embarrassed to say that we’ve done next to nothing, accept swim eat, read and chill….Island life has taken us into her clutches and resistance was futile. A few fun facts; Mauritius was the only known home of the Dodo, which consequently still remains the national bird, which I find strange, as the island has a wonderful array of colourful of avian life to choose from. Something else of note is that the island has the world’s 3rd largest barrier reef that pretty much surrounds the whole island and offers protection from cyclones and makes for calmer seas, ideal for swimming.

We’ve moved and are in a nice modern apartment, a stones throw from a beach called “Bain Boeuf” (beef bath) it’s a pretty little bay and isn’t too far from where we were before. We’ve continued with our early morning routine of yoga for me and HITT’s for Rach, then it’s a 5 minute walk to the beach and then a further 5 mins as you hug the coastline, to where we have discovered a great little swim spot and we’ve already had the privilege of swimming alongside some very healthy looking Hawksbill turtles, as well as some other colourful fish.

The Island has a heavy Indian influence, with Hinduism being the dominant religion, so we took a trip out to the main Tamil temple, near Port Louis, which is very vibrant and was handcrafted some time ago. We do like a garden, so we decided to take a walk around the Pamplemousse Botanical Gardens, which we really enjoyed, the tropical foliage and fauna is both vivd and interesting to look at, with the birds serenading us with their wonderful little tunes as we sauntered along the winding pathways. As we discovered Mauritius is also home to some of the biggest fruit bats in the world, with wingspans of 80cm’s and there were several trees that they had made home. Sadly I wasn’t able to capture any photos of them in flight, as they’re not that active during the day.

The island is also home to some 15 thousand protected giant tortoises, most of which roam wild on the southern tip of neighbouring Rodrigues island, but there were a few in the pamplemousse gardens. We’ve discovered a cool little restaurant, just around the corner from us, which plays good music and serves our kind of food, so we’ve dropped in there for lunch a few times. We’re really enjoying the warm people and the relaxed feel of the island.

Ehttps://abnb.me/AC9dWvvW8Eb