Knossos and Rethymno

It had been a tough week, but with things in hand as we waited for the slow bureaucrats in the UK to process the paperwork, we weren’t needed, so we decided to stay on. We hired a car for a few days and headed off to Heraklion, more specifically Knossos, which ended up being a pleasant hour and a half’s drive on the main highway, hugging the coastline.

We had set off quite late, so when we arrived and knowing that once we started exploring, we’d forget to eat, we found a small organic restaurant close by set underneath flowering olive trees and tucked into some delicious authentic Cretan food. After lunch, we made our way to the Minoan palace. First built in 1900 BC, but then adapted by the Minoans some 500 years later, it holds folklore surrounding its ruler King Minos, the labyrinth for the Minotaur, and for me, the story of how Daedalus and his son Icarus escaped imprisonment from the labyrinth, only for Icarus to fly too close to the sun and fall to his death in what after became the Icarian Sea.

The palace itself is huge and sits on an artificial hill, with commanding views on all sides. The sprawling building layout is very complex. Daedalus’ remit was to design it so that visitors would be trapped there until Minos was ready for them to leave. Sadly for me, it was recreated in the 1970s by an English archaeologist, who used inappropriate building materials (concrete) that I found hard to look past, but it didn’t bother Rach, who really enjoyed it.

After leaving the palace, we set off into Heraklion to see the famed museum, only to discover it closed. So, from there, we decided to spend the rest of the day taking a look around Rethymno, which is halfway between Heraklion & Chania. The weather was beautiful, so we parked up along the seafront and decided to walk the couple of miles into the port and then into the old town.

The Venetian port was much smaller than the one in Chania, but against the backdrop of the sea, it was as impressive. The old town was perhaps more extensive than Chania’s, with different streets seemingly given over to the collective groups of craftsmen to showcase their wares. We got a little lost as we strayed deeper into this labyrinth, fortunately knowing that the sea was to our left. We eventually got back to the seafront and after walking about a half a mile past the car as we chatted, we retraced our steps back to the car and made our way home.

Some sad news and a trip to the hospital in Chania

I was awakened in the early hours of Saturday morning by sharp shooting pains. I don’t like to take painkillers, but I raided Rachel’s stash and after taking a couple, waited for them to kick in. Unfortunately, they didn’t, and I spent the rest of the night in the fetal position, moaning and feeling pretty sorry for myself.

Later that morning, I overheard Rachel on the phone and guessed the sad news: my father had passed away. It wasn’t completely unexpected, as Dad had been struggled with his health over the last year. Nevertheless, it’s the type of news that I don’t think anyone can prepare for, and then the guilt began as I remembered all of the times when I could have handled things better with him. Fortunately, my brother had been staying that weekend, to support Mum and was staying on.

My father and I didn’t always see eye to eye, and he was a man who showed little emotion. Perhaps not because he didn’t want to, but because he didn’t know how. It’s something I never understood, even after I had my own children. He was happiest around the creative arts, able to turn his hand to whatever he wanted. A talented draftsman in his early years, then he found music (Jazz), playing the saxophone in bands, including proudly the Royal Airforce band.

He was a great artist, exhibiting at galleries in London and the southeast of England, with his paintings finding homes across the world. He was an accomplished photographer, using only his own reference material for his artwork. Together with a good friend, over nearly a decade, they created the children’s animated series, “Cogs Hollow.” As talented artists, they drew and fabricated all of the characters themselves. They also filmed each episode in stop animation, and Dad even had a hand in writing the music… Incredible!

Ultimately, he was one of life’s continual learners, always pushing for perfection in whatever artistic medium he was working in. For me, it was frustrating to see, and he wasn’t always great to be around. But I was proud of his accomplishments and to call him my father. However, on reflection, I know that I didn’t tell him that often enough. I just spent too much time focusing on the things that he wasn’t so good at.

After two days, things were getting worse, so Rachel decided that we should probably get things checked out. I would normally have resisted, but I felt she was probably right. The hospital in Chania wasn’t the most modern medical establishment I’ve ever been in; in fact, it was a little rundown. But what they lacked in equipment and aesthetics, they more than made up for in competent people who were welcoming and full of assurance. After we’d been there for an hour or so, I threw up, something I haven’t done for a good 20 years. But after that, I started to feel better, and the numerous blood and urine tests had all come back clean, which was a relief. After the doctor had signed me off with some kind of gastroenteritis, we took a cab back to the apartment, where I was sick again. After having a shower, I crawled into bed and got some sleep for the first time in a days and a few days after that, I was on the mend.

The Venetian port & Museum

We’ve settled into our exercise routine and early morning walks, as we tend to do wherever we stay. While we haven’t braved the early morning swims yet, as the Mediterranean is still pretty cold, we’re waiting until the afternoon. We took the number 21 bus as close as we could to the old town and then meandered through its streets, which eventually opened out into the old Venetian port. The old buildings have been mostly turned into boutique hotels, with restaurants sitting close to the water’s edge. It’s really quite attractive, and there’s a very calming vibe here. We deliberately arrived in Crete before the crowds, and I’m sure it’s completely different then.

The lighthouse, which guards the entry, was originally built by the Venetians, but sadly, all that remains is the base, as it was rebuilt by the Egyptians in the mid-1800s during their occupation. The walls remain, though, and are great to walk along, offering enchanting views out to sea and amazing vistas across the port, the city, and the beautiful snow-capped ridges. It was a beautiful day, so we spent most of our time in and around the port, stopping for a great lazy lunch as we watched people of different nationalities pass by.

After lunch, we took a further stroll through the colorful side streets of the old town and made our way up to the newly commissioned museum. The museum was thoughtfully laid out, with some interesting artifacts recovered from across Chania, including relics dating back to the Minoan period.

The Venetian Port in Chania

Chania, Crete

After nearly three months in the UK and with my father finally out of the hospital and a new care team in place, I booked two flights to Chania in Crete. Saying farewell is always tough, especially to my mum, with whom we spent the majority of our time during this trip. Fortunately, my good friend Gerry kindly offered to drive us to the airport, which was fortuitous due to a train strike that day.

After a four-hour flight, we arrived in Chania just after 9 pm and headed straight to the car rental to pick up our vehicle, or so we thought. Unfortunately, things didn’t go as planned, as they didn’t accept the Amex card I had prepaid the booking with, and my other cards seemed to pose a challenge for them as well. The overall experience wasn’t a good one, so after venting my frustration, I was happy to let Amex sort it out.

The taxi finally arrived at our Airbnb in Agii Apostoli, Galatas, located on the northwest side of the island. Crete, not only the largest island in Europe but also the most southern, is separated from North East Africa/Middle East by the Libyan Sea, a fact we’re reminded of a couple of times a day as Euro-Fighters patrol that corridor.

The following morning, we ventured out to get some food after a quick exploration of the local area. The surroundings consist of on excellent walking tracks, popular with the locals undera canopy of trees leading out to three beaches: one long stretch of sand and two smaller coves, each with its own unique characteristics and clear water, perfect for swimming. All three beaches are less than ten minutes walk from where we’re staying, which is ideal. Winding paths through the brush offer interesting walks along the beachheads with stunning views of the sea and the Lefka Ori mountain range.

There are plenty of restaurants to choose from and a couple of supermarkets nearby. Additionally, it’s just a 10-minute drive to the second-largest city, Chania and all its charms.

https://www.airbnb.com/slink/RubDCbOo

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Where we’re staying

Easter in the Derbyshire Peak District

We had decided to meet up with Christien, Seb, Ally and Arlo one more time before we set off on our travels again and Ally had found what looked to be a cute little hide away for us all to meet at.

Our journey was just over a couple of hours, across a surprisingly quiet A14 and M1 and then along a few single track roads, bringing us out in Buxton and then a few minutes further to “Wild Hive Callow Hall”, an old stately home that had not long been refurbished, sitting in the middle of an uninterrupted vista, nestled in the Derbyshire Dales, which was a very welcome site.

We had arrived 5 minutes after Seb, Ally & Arlo and although cold the sun was shining. Christien was about 40 minutes away, giving us enough time to enter the easter egg hunt something none of us had done for a long while. It would take about 2 hrs heading out across the dales and along pretty ravines (perfect for Arlo to stretch his legs) to collect the 13 letters from the 13 cryptic clues we had been given and then solve the riddle. As soon as Christien arrived, we filled him in and set off. We only struggled to find a couple of the letters that were well hidden, behind some well crafted clues, but it was a good giggle, which took us through many fields that were full of bouncing lambs whom were both apprehensive and curious of our little band of would be sleuths. It’s another first for us having never been to this area before and I must say it’s rather beautiful.

We had booked a table at the restaurant, when Ally made the hotel booking, which was just as well, as it was very popular. The food and service were both good with the menu offered only what was produced within the 100 acre estate. After dinner we setup in the big library with the open fire, for some board games, which is always very competitive, well between Ally and I, but good humoured. It had been a long day for us all and Christien was also still recovering from his lads ski-trip so we didn’t stay up too late.

The following morning we all met for a late breakfast In the small library, so that Arlo could join us too, for a very hearty breakfast, unfortunately it was raining so we took Arlo for a quick spin around an adjoining field and said our afternoon goodbye’s to the guys. Rach and I were in no hurry to get back, so decided to take a good walk through the fields before heading back to Hartford.

A trip to the dentist

Rachel & Keith met us for lunch at “The Cock” in Hemingford Grey, which is a local favourite of ours. It’s in a lovely spot surrounded by thatched cottages, serving some great food. We had a good catch up and it was nice of the guys to take the long drive up to see us.

We arrived in Little Fenton, North Yorkshire on Thursday, Chris and Lesley were away on a cruise and had very kindly offered us their beautiful barn to stay in, as the guest room at Seb & Ally’s isn’t quite finished yet. After settling in Seb popped in on his way home from work, for cuddles and kisses, before heading home further up the lane. The following day we all set off in the car to take Arlo for a good long walk, with the promise of a good lunch at the other end, then it was back with the guys, for a grand tour and although there’s still some more work to do, the place looks fabulous! The last time we saw it, it was at ground level and they were living in the static caravan to the side of the house.

As part of the trip, I would also be spending time with Seb in a professional capacity and I’d be lying if I wasn’t just a little anxious, as this sometimes uncomfortable dental journey started nearly 3 years ago. He’d squeezed me in to begin my ceramic implant treatment plan, with his friend Fabi, another biological dentist over from Munich, working with him. My session however turned out to be bone augmentation, as unfortunately there wasn’t enough bone for the first 4 planned implants to go into and so frustratingly meaning that, we will try again in 4-6 months when hopefully the new bone has regrown. It was pretty sore for a good few days after but I had remembered to bring my blender. Seb & Ally were busy for most of the week, so other than some fresh walks along very quiet roads, with open fields it was a rest & recuperation week, while Rach worked. We spent time with Seb and Ally towards the weekend, before heading back down to Hartford. That weekend we celebrated Rachel’s birthday at the Old Bridge, which was good fun with great food.

A weekend in Braintree, with a trip to Maldon

We’ve been making the best of our weather windows whilst in Hartford, which has been a mixture of cold and sunny, together with some torrential rain, the later of which caused the river Ouse to burst its banks again, so much so that it’s no longer a spectacle for us, to be fair though, there’s been widespread flooding across the country. The birds have been pretty vocal, delivering their enchanting little melodies, that never fail to make me smile every morning.

Our good friends Jon and Jo extended a weekend invitation, which is always fun and involves plenty of long walks with Ozz off the beaten track. We went out for dinner at a rather good Italian restaurant, which was a fun evening and the following day, that was both sunny and not too cold we decided to head east to Malden, which is famous for its salt and sits on the Blackwater estuary, where barges still sail up the Thames into London. It’s pretty old too, dating back to the 10th Century, with some interesting buildings that adorn the small narrow streets.

We’d chosen a busy weekend to visit as we discovered, with the local rowing club taking to the water to race each other, in some old wooden row-boats that looked a real handful to manage but made for compelling viewing, well for us anyway, Ozzie wasn’t the slightest bit interested and was quick to move us on as a good walk was what he’d come for. It was an interesting day walking around and was a first time visit for Rach and I.

Before we left we went to a hidden little fish restaurant, where those in the know went to sample the catch of the day, which was well received, after a day exploring in the fresh sea air.

After an early morning walk, the following day with Jo and Ozz, reflecting on an enjoyable weekend, we headed back to Hartford.

All Saints Church & An overflowing River Ouse – Hartford Cambridgeshire

Leaving Mauritius. Back to the UK for a while.

As our time at #3 Les Canonniers came to an end and with commitments in the UK, we closed the door for the final time, reflecting on the wonderful three months we spent in Mauritius. Our daily routine of gym workouts, yoga, swimming, and strolls along the beach left us feeling very fortunate. We’ve met some incredible people, both locals and fellow travellers, and though moving on was a bit sad, we’ve learned that leaving on a high is better than overstaying.

Arriving at the airport a good two hours early, somewhat of a personal achievement for me, we returned the rental car, navigated the busy airport, and boarded our flight, where we weren’t one of the last to board. The flight, delayed by about an hour, presented some turbulence over the Indian Ocean due to the recent cyclone. Nevertheless, we both managed to get some sleep during the 13-hour journey, and we touched down in a chilly London Gatwick, a stark contrast to the temperatures we’d grown accustomed to during our time away.

After a train to Huntingdon and a short taxi ride, we reached my parents’ place,who were both pleased to see us. The following day, Seb, Ally, Arlo, and Christian gathered for a heartwarming get-together and dinner. My father, who hasn’t been in good health, seemed to perk up with all his guests, especially Arlo, which added to the joy.

The subsequent week involved much-needed haircuts and a stay at the Harbour Hotel in Guildford. While Rachel attended team meetings, I relished my time decorating Christian’s apartment, with him in Wokingham. On Thursday, we moved on to Cobham, staying with Rachel and Rhubarb, the perfect hosts who made the visit not only enjoyable and great fun. We even celebrated my birthday at a delightful gastropub in Weybridge, along with a special walk for the other birthday boy, Rhubarb, who turned 14!

Cyclone Balal

The weather has indeed taken a turn. January to March signifies the onset of the rainy season, and it seems to have arrived all at once. Since we arrived in October, there has been barely a breath of wind, but that changed with the build-up and arrival of Cyclone “Balal.” Having almost experienced a devastating hurricane before, I knew the drill and stocked up on essentials.

On Sunday, we went for an early morning swim, sensing the strange swells developing, moving us around like a drain emptying. As we got out, the rain started to fall while we walked the beach and watched the last of the small boats being pulled out of the water by their respective pickup trucks—some on trailers and others just pulled out and tied to trees.

Monday morning brought news that the cyclone was still tracking between us and Reunion Island. With our housekeeper’s arrival, we decided to head to the beach for a walk, knowing we might be stuck indoors for a while. As soon as we got there, the heavens opened with rain that stings as it hits you—good fun, though, and except for a French couple we see most mornings, we were the only ones around. We waited for a break in the weather and then rushed back to the car, luckily, as we’re staying only 5 minutes from the beach, we crept back home as the roads were already flooded.

The heavy rain, propelled by high winds, arrived late that afternoon. Situated on a higher point, our first-floor apartment is well-furnished and secure, making our mandatory curfew painless. Fortunately, Mauritius was spared the full impact of the cyclone, and apart from a minor power outage, which considering the island’s overground power cables, we got very lucky! The curfew ended at midday on Monday, and we took a drive to assess how our little corner of the island and the beach had weathered the storm. We were fortunate, with scattered debris, but the sea had eroded the beach somewhat and claimed several of the beautiful trees. The normally inviting water had also turned into a thick soup, with vegetation and rubbish strewn across the beach. The north of the island, fared much better than the south, which tragically lost a number of people to the storm.

A boat trip

Though perhaps not as inquisitive and active as in some of the other countries we’ve visited, life here moves at a slower pace, centered around the water and everyone enjoys it with locals flocking to the beaches every weekend for fun and family cookouts. We’ve genuinely enjoyed our time here, meeting different people and learning from Mauritian and expats about the island’s history and how things work here.

Our boat trip got canceled early in the week, but fortunately, we were able to reschedule. After leaving the apartment at 7:15 am, we arrived in Grand Baie 10 minutes later and and then sat around waiting to be picked up….Rach has to lie to me so we arrive on time; my timekeeping is still rubbish!. Grand Baie is the main hub in the north, with small boutiques, restaurants, and a casino, also the best place on the island to buy fish. The small tender took us from the beach to the 50ft catamaran, on which we’d spend the day. With a small group, we headed out of the harbor towards our first destination, Coin de Mire (Gunners Quoin), the island we spent our first two months looking out to every day. We arrived some 45 minutes later and anchored on the sheltered side of the island.

All the small islands are protected wildlife areas, except for the two we’d visit later in the day, completely off-limits to locals and tourists alike. There was an opportunity to dive in and see fantastic tropical fish feeding around the coral heads before heading east across some very choppy water. About an hour and a half later, we pulled into a beautiful sheltered bay with turquoise waters, wedged between two small islands, Île Plate (Flat Island), where we’d spend an hour or so exploring while the captain and his team prepared lunch. The island is about a square mile and has some beautiful white sandy beaches running around it. One of the first things we noticed was the Paille en Queue (Tropic Bird) performing their frantic aerial displays with their long wisp of a tail, mesmerizing! Lunch was some delicious barbecued fish, which we both enjoyed. After a long leisurely lunch, we headed over to Île aux Gabriel (Gabriel Island) to find a shaded spot under a Filao tree to watch the aerial displays and stare out towards the mainland. Sadly, the fantastic wide beaches that once surrounded both islands are slowly eroding. Back on board the boat, we made our 20km journey back through the choppy waters for what was a very enjoyable and quick 2hr return leg back into Grand Baie. A great day!