Cyclone Balal

The weather has indeed taken a turn. January to March signifies the onset of the rainy season, and it seems to have arrived all at once. Since we arrived in October, there has been barely a breath of wind, but that changed with the build-up and arrival of Cyclone “Balal.” Having almost experienced a devastating hurricane before, I knew the drill and stocked up on essentials.

On Sunday, we went for an early morning swim, sensing the strange swells developing, moving us around like a drain emptying. As we got out, the rain started to fall while we walked the beach and watched the last of the small boats being pulled out of the water by their respective pickup trucks—some on trailers and others just pulled out and tied to trees.

Monday morning brought news that the cyclone was still tracking between us and Reunion Island. With our housekeeper’s arrival, we decided to head to the beach for a walk, knowing we might be stuck indoors for a while. As soon as we got there, the heavens opened with rain that stings as it hits you—good fun, though, and except for a French couple we see most mornings, we were the only ones around. We waited for a break in the weather and then rushed back to the car, luckily, as we’re staying only 5 minutes from the beach, we crept back home as the roads were already flooded.

The heavy rain, propelled by high winds, arrived late that afternoon. Situated on a higher point, our first-floor apartment is well-furnished and secure, making our mandatory curfew painless. Fortunately, Mauritius was spared the full impact of the cyclone, and apart from a minor power outage, which considering the island’s overground power cables, we got very lucky! The curfew ended at midday on Monday, and we took a drive to assess how our little corner of the island and the beach had weathered the storm. We were fortunate, with scattered debris, but the sea had eroded the beach somewhat and claimed several of the beautiful trees. The normally inviting water had also turned into a thick soup, with vegetation and rubbish strewn across the beach. The north of the island, fared much better than the south, which tragically lost a number of people to the storm.

A boat trip

Though perhaps not as inquisitive and active as in some of the other countries we’ve visited, life here moves at a slower pace, centered around the water and everyone enjoys it with locals flocking to the beaches every weekend for fun and family cookouts. We’ve genuinely enjoyed our time here, meeting different people and learning from Mauritian and expats about the island’s history and how things work here.

Our boat trip got canceled early in the week, but fortunately, we were able to reschedule. After leaving the apartment at 7:15 am, we arrived in Grand Baie 10 minutes later and and then sat around waiting to be picked up….Rach has to lie to me so we arrive on time; my timekeeping is still rubbish!. Grand Baie is the main hub in the north, with small boutiques, restaurants, and a casino, also the best place on the island to buy fish. The small tender took us from the beach to the 50ft catamaran, on which we’d spend the day. With a small group, we headed out of the harbor towards our first destination, Coin de Mire (Gunners Quoin), the island we spent our first two months looking out to every day. We arrived some 45 minutes later and anchored on the sheltered side of the island.

All the small islands are protected wildlife areas, except for the two we’d visit later in the day, completely off-limits to locals and tourists alike. There was an opportunity to dive in and see fantastic tropical fish feeding around the coral heads before heading east across some very choppy water. About an hour and a half later, we pulled into a beautiful sheltered bay with turquoise waters, wedged between two small islands, Île Plate (Flat Island), where we’d spend an hour or so exploring while the captain and his team prepared lunch. The island is about a square mile and has some beautiful white sandy beaches running around it. One of the first things we noticed was the Paille en Queue (Tropic Bird) performing their frantic aerial displays with their long wisp of a tail, mesmerizing! Lunch was some delicious barbecued fish, which we both enjoyed. After a long leisurely lunch, we headed over to Île aux Gabriel (Gabriel Island) to find a shaded spot under a Filao tree to watch the aerial displays and stare out towards the mainland. Sadly, the fantastic wide beaches that once surrounded both islands are slowly eroding. Back on board the boat, we made our 20km journey back through the choppy waters for what was a very enjoyable and quick 2hr return leg back into Grand Baie. A great day!

Chateau de Labourdonnais, Pietra Both and a boat trip

We’ve fully embraced island life, with busy mornings of yoga, swimming, and beach walks, followed by afternoons spent away from the sun. Rachel’s been occupied with work, while I’ve enjoyed some reading. Food shopping involves visits to small roadside sellers for fresh produce, and for everything else, there’s the mall just a ten-minute drive away.

During one of our day outings, we explored the Chateau de Labourdonnais, a beautifully restored Victorian colonial building surrounded by a wonderful estate with majestic trees. The house, arranged as it was in the 19th century, offers an intriguing stroll and hosts what could be the island’s top restaurant. It also produces renowned rum from the surrounding cane and fruit trees. As you drive around the island, the mountains on the east side catch your eye, especially one in the Moka mountain range named “Pietra Both” after an 18th-century Dutch governor. From a distance, it appears as if someone precariously placed a head on top of the peak.

Venturing south to Blue Bay (a 1.5-hour drive from Point aux Canonniers), we found a beautiful beach extending to a protected reef and marine park. Our boat trip took us crawling across a healthy reef, along the southeastern shoreline to Egret Island, and then back to Île des deux Cocos. Here, we enjoyed a delicious fish curry on the beach, watching waves crash against the reef about 500 meters out. Our half-day trip wrapped up with snorkeling on a vibrant and healthy reef teeming with colorful tropical fish, both big and small. Happy New Year!

Pointe aux Canonniers & Mon Choisy Beach

After our six weeks at the apartment in Bain Bœuf, it was time to move on, and we were definitely leaving on a high. It has been the perfect spot for us, from a pleasant stroll up Macumba Lane, past the industrious weaver birds that never seem to tire, to greeting and checking out what the fishermen have brought in from their early morning foray, with a colorful chap ready with his rusty old scale. Most of the small sloops don’t have an engine, instead opting for oars or a long punting stick doubling as both means to propel the small craft, some also with a hook on the end, which I assume is used to help bring the traps to the surface, to aid the diver. Apparently, one of the guys clears the cage of fish while the other chap (usually fishing as a pair) collects algae and sponges that are used to re-bait the trap overnight for the following day’s pick up—a tough way to make a living!

After bidding farewell to some of the people we’d seen most days for the final time, we headed back to the apartment for a leisurely breakfast while we waited for the rental car to be dropped off. We arrived at Les Canonniers (Point aux Canonniers), which was a 15-minute drive northwest, where our gracious host was waiting to welcome us to our new home for the next month. It’s a little larger than our last, newly built, and we are its first tenants. It’s in a great location and very quiet, with just the sound of the birds—perfect!

We’ve had a few tropical downpours, where if you’re out on the road, you need to be careful that you’re not marooned, as many of the roads flood. Unless you’ve got a truck with good engine clearance and not a small hire car, the roads become impassable. But apart from a couple of washouts, it rains hard and fast for a short while, leaving the sun to work its magic and clear the way, driving temperatures up by an extra 5 degrees. As I write this, today is the summer solstice, the longest day of the year, and I feel very grateful when I think that in the Northern Hemisphere, it’s the shortest. Merry Christmas!

Where we’re staying over Christmas and the New Year

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The birds, a quick visit to Port Louis and the south

There’s a lot of wildlife here, and I’m getting used to the turtles accompanying me on my early morning swims. Outside of the ocean, I’m under the spell of the beautiful little birds, many of which you can only hear and catch fleeting glimpses of their striking vibrant colors as they go about their frantic little lives.

We spent the last few weekends out looking at potential next places to move to, which hasn’t been an easy endeavor as everything on the small island over the festive season is either beyond our budget or already booked. After drawing a blank with all of the usual online sites, Rachel joined the local Facebook rental group on the off chance and posted an ad with what we were looking for. After a few busts, Sabrina came up trumps with what is to be our next apartment, which we’re both relieved and excited about.

One of those busts took us to the southern end of the island, and after quickly ruling it out, we decided to take a look at the Rochester Falls. Contrary to what the tour guide tells you, unless you have a good 4×4, it’s not possible to traverse the terrain in a Suzuki Swift. So, abandoning the car 100 meters from the top, Rach and I made the short walk down to the volcanic columned falls, which was well worth the visit. During the dry season, the falls are more like a dribble, but as we’ve had a few tropical downpours, we got to see the spectacle at its best.

On another day, we decided to take a quick look at Port Louis, the country’s capital. We spent some time there walking along the dock, which is essentially an outdoor shopping complex that wraps around a crescent-shaped harbor. It was interesting watching people of different nationalities milling around. However, I’m not a shopping fan, so we moved across the road to have a quick look at the financial district and the old colonial-looking government house before weaving our way out of this busy city, which, as we discovered, is the capital of the most densely populated country in Africa. Still really enjoying island life, though.

Some small, hypnotic, Mauritian birds.

Island Life

And just like that we’ve been here nearly a month now and I’m not embarrassed to say that we’ve done next to nothing, accept swim eat, read and chill….Island life has taken us into her clutches and resistance was futile. A few fun facts; Mauritius was the only known home of the Dodo, which consequently still remains the national bird, which I find strange, as the island has a wonderful array of colourful of avian life to choose from. Something else of note is that the island has the world’s 3rd largest barrier reef that pretty much surrounds the whole island and offers protection from cyclones and makes for calmer seas, ideal for swimming.

We’ve moved and are in a nice modern apartment, a stones throw from a beach called “Bain Boeuf” (beef bath) it’s a pretty little bay and isn’t too far from where we were before. We’ve continued with our early morning routine of yoga for me and HITT’s for Rach, then it’s a 5 minute walk to the beach and then a further 5 mins as you hug the coastline, to where we have discovered a great little swim spot and we’ve already had the privilege of swimming alongside some very healthy looking Hawksbill turtles, as well as some other colourful fish.

The Island has a heavy Indian influence, with Hinduism being the dominant religion, so we took a trip out to the main Tamil temple, near Port Louis, which is very vibrant and was handcrafted some time ago. We do like a garden, so we decided to take a walk around the Pamplemousse Botanical Gardens, which we really enjoyed, the tropical foliage and fauna is both vivd and interesting to look at, with the birds serenading us with their wonderful little tunes as we sauntered along the winding pathways. As we discovered Mauritius is also home to some of the biggest fruit bats in the world, with wingspans of 80cm’s and there were several trees that they had made home. Sadly I wasn’t able to capture any photos of them in flight, as they’re not that active during the day.

The island is also home to some 15 thousand protected giant tortoises, most of which roam wild on the southern tip of neighbouring Rodrigues island, but there were a few in the pamplemousse gardens. We’ve discovered a cool little restaurant, just around the corner from us, which plays good music and serves our kind of food, so we’ve dropped in there for lunch a few times. We’re really enjoying the warm people and the relaxed feel of the island.

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Mauritius

It was a nervy start in planning the trip. We couldn’t decide where to go, but a Mauritian friend of Rach’s had convinced us to spend some time on his island, so I threw caution to the wind and booked a couple of one-way tickets on a direct BA flight. As there are only two airlines offering direct flights from London to Mauritius and we didn’t fancy a stopover, there wasn’t much time for deliberation. However after booking the flights, I quickly realised that Mauritius isn’t a very big island, and as we had chosen to go in the middle of the European season, there weren’t too many nice places available to stay within our budget.

But after several days of searching frantically, we found a property, or so we’d thought. After two days of our host not returning our messages via phone or email but taking our money nonetheless, we were forced to cancel and rely on Airbnb to chase a refund. Fortunately, three days before flying, we found what looked to be a nice villa, which came as a huge relief!

We took a taxi to the train station and boarded the train to Gatwick airport for our night flight. After checking in and a short wait, we boarded our 777 on a stormy evening and headed for Port Louis in Mauritius for what was to be just under a 12-hour flight. We had pretty good seats, so were able to relax a bit and get some sleep, which was welcome as we had a hire car waiting for us when we landed. We sailed through immigration, and once through, we were pleased to see our luggage creep around the carousel. I’ve added Apple Tags to all of the bags, but they haven’t quashed my luggage anxiety, if anything they’ve made it worse, as they lose signal once you’re on the plane, so you still don’t know if they’ve made it on or not.

Once through arrivals, we headed to the local mobile carrier counter to get a couple of local sims, which as we stay for longer periods is a must, both from a cost and coverage standpoint. From there it was a raid on the ATM, and then off to meet the car rental chap, which, despite some negative reviews, was completely painless. Inside half an hour, we were on the road heading north towards Cap Malheureux, with the aircon at full tilt, It’s in the low 30s and very humid, not that I’m complaining, of course. As we drove through the middle of the country, we took note of row upon row of fields of green sugar cane against the volcanic backdrop of some very interesting peaks to the east that seemed to be clinging to the horizon.

After stopping at one of the supermarkets to stock up and after just under a couple of hours in the car, we arrived at Villa Lilliya, and were greeted by our host’s nephew. First impressions were great; it had a really relaxed vibe about it and a lovely tranquil outside space, that we very quickly became acquainted with. It’s also about a 5 minute walk to the Indian Ocean and what would become our early morning swim spot.

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Villa Liliya – Cap Malheureux, Mauritius

Friends & Family

“It’s been a while, nearly two months since I posted an update. Rach has been busy with team meetings, so we spent the first couple of weeks in September at my brother’s, which is close to her office. This gave me the opportunity to catch up with Steve, Paul, and Barry a few times at the lake for some skiing and playful banter, always good fun and fortunately, I have a great chiropractor who puts things back in place after I’ve broken them. Christien lives close, so we got to see him between his tennis and golf commitments for dinner on a few nights. It’s great to see him enjoying life.

We took the opportunity to go for a long walk around Virginia Water, something we’d often do when we were younger. It’s a wonderful two mile walk around a lake, which sits on the southern point of Windsor Great Park and on the way back I stopped at Royal Holloway College, one of my favourite buildings in the UK.

Sadly, Rachel’s mum passed away, which wasn’t completely unexpected, as she had been suffering in the late stages of dementia. Although it was a relief to see her suffering end, nothing really prepares you for the finality of it all. She was an incredible woman and touched many lives, mine included. Always on hand for sound advice and insight, she was responsible for the fourteen years I ended up spending in the casino industry. The service and placing the ashes into the family plot were both touching and a celebration of her life.We were also blessed with some Whitstable sunshine on that day.

We have spent most of our time back in the UK with my parents, as my father hasn’t been well and has spent the last month in the hospital. So, my mum and I have been at the hospital every day, and when not there, we’ve been setting up the equipment needed for his pending return and putting a long-term care plan in place, as my mother has opted to care for him at home. Like Rachel’s father was, my mum is completely exhausted from it all, so we’ve tried to give her some respite and have everything sorted before we set sail again.

With all that’s been going on here in Hartford, we’ve still managed to have some lovely walks. We snuck out for lunch with Jon and Jo in Cambridge.

After 5 weeks in hospital my dad’s on his way home, so we’ve booked our next destination and this time we’re heading a little further afield.

Getting together for a long weekend in Staffordshire

We’ve been quite busy visiting friends almost every week since our return about five weeks ago. Time has really flown by, and we recently had the chance to head into the city to celebrate Rachel Gill’s birthday along with Keith at a fantastic rooftop restaurant with a view over St. Paul’s. Catching up with friends and hearing about what they’ve been up to is always fun, and they’re great company. We spent some time with them in Cobham and took Rhubarb out for a couple of walks. Despite his age, he’s getting on a bit, but still loves to chase a stick.

Our journey began from Hartford on a Friday afternoon. We made our way towards the middle of the country, specifically Stafford in Staffordshire. Finding the town was straightforward, but locating our accommodation turned out to be a bit more challenging. Seb and Ally had organized a food delivery for our stay, and interestingly, we found the delivery driver in the same pub car park that our sat-nav system had led us to. For the next 40 minutes, the patient driver followed us around the local area until we finally found it, the “Agency” sat in the grounds of “Sandon Hall,” an impressive stately home still inhabited by the Harrowby family. We AirBnb’d it and chose it as it was a similar distance for everyone to travel too, we did the same last year and it worked out really well. The house itself was situated beautifully within the extensive grounds, which were practically ours to explore.

Seb and Ally arrived first, with Christien and his best friend Brad shortly after. Since the weather was sunny, we decided to head outdoors to let Arlo chase his tail, whilst we played some garden games and caught up. We opted to have dinner in, as we were all a little jaded and everyone pitched in, to help. Then it was into the drawing room for some competitive and heated board games…Ha hah, love it!

The next day, we planned to go out on a walk as recommended by our host. Setting off late morning, for what was described as a two-and-a-half-hour hike. However, due to outdated directions (which we learned later hadn’t been updated for quite sometime), we got lost, and by the time we were about three hours into the walk, the heavens opened. After four hours of hiking, completely drenched, we decided to abandon the idea of making it back to the cars opting to get them later and instead returned to the house for much-needed showers, baths, and food, but had a good laugh about our little adventure.

That evening, I had arranged a dinner at “Aston Marina.” We were given a pod with a view of the river, our own waitress, and the freedom to choose our own music. It turned out to be a great evening. The next morning, with some of the group feeling a bit tired from the previous day and night’s activities, we opted for a relatively short walk around the estate, especially considering the ominous-looking sky. The estate is a working one, mainly for sheep farming, so we needed to be careful with Arlo. We all contributed to preparing lunch, which turned out to be delicious. After saying our goodbyes, we went our separate ways, feeling grateful to everyone for making the weekend so special.

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The family get together in Stafford

Back to the UK for a “dads & lads” weekend

Our journey back from Palermo was surprisingly smooth, which was a perfect way to conclude our time there. We spent the weekend with my parents before heading over to my brother’s house. After getting haircuts and catching up with friends, it was time to embark on a trip that Seb had organized, one of the main reasons for our visit to the UK.

Christien picked me up, and after maneuvering through the Friday afternoon traffic for just over two and a half hours, we arrived at “The Grange” in Beaminster, West Dorset. It was a charming part of the country, situated in the midst of tranquility and nature. We had initially anticipated that our group would consist of just the six of us (Chris, Josh, Alex, Seb, Christien, and me), but we were joined by four girls (Clare, Fran, Chloe, and Katie), who were great fun and only added to the experience…hopefully they felt the same.

After settling into our rooms, taken care of by our hosts Richie and Tamara, we wasted no time in taking advantage of the sauna and Turkish bath for some relaxation. This was followed by an invigorating ice bath, which was simultaneously torturous and refreshing. The next day started early at 7:30 with more rounds of hot and cold treatments, followed by deep stretching and intense circuit training. It had been a while since I had engaged in circuit training, so the 90 minutes were quite challenging. After this grueling session, we returned to the hot and cold treatment rooms before enjoying a leisurely and delicious brunch.

Following a wonderful walk through picturesque countryside, we were prepared for our first breathwork session in the pool. It was tougher than it might sound. This session was concluded with a sauna. After such a physically demanding day, we capped it off with gentle yoga before unwinding for an hour. Our evening meal, once again prepared and served by the fantastic chef Oscar and his team, was a perfect way to conclude the day with locally sourced and delicious food.

Sunday brought a similar routine to Saturday, but it was even more intense, and most of us, myself included, were really starting to feel the effects. Originally, the plan was to head to the beach for more breathwork and swimming, but the inclement weather put a stop to that idea. Instead, we made our way back into the pool, for some more under water breath work this time with weights. It certainly challenged us both mentally and physically.

We checked out on Monday at lunchtime, but before departing, we went through our final rounds of hot and cold treatments, stretching, and circuit training. This was followed by a well-deserved final brunch. The entire experience with adaptexplore.com was truly fantastic, and we are already looking forward to meeting up again next year.

The weekend with AdaptXplore