Heading south to Mahdia

We have really enjoyed our time in Carthage and the boundless hospitality of our lovely host Hedia. However, it is time to move on and see what else Tunisia has to offer.

Our comfortable car arrived late Saturday morning for what was to be a 220km journey south. The main highway runs through the middle of the country, unfortunately not along the coastline but through endless olive groves. The older trees look like twisted, gnarled statues, neatly lined up like sentinels. About three hours later, we arrived in Mahdia, which is located on the most easterly peninsula of Tunisia. The crescent bay stretches some 240km up to Kelibia at the top, with a sandy coastline from one end to the other. From our terrace, we have an unobstructed view across the entire panorama, which is simply incredible.

After the holiday weekend (we arrived in the middle of the festival of Eid – post Ramadan), our host was kind enough to take us to the farmers’ and fish markets. Mahdia is known for its fish and both markets are about a 20-minute walk into town.

We have finally made it back into the water, and although it is still pretty cold at first, we soon warm up. The beach is just a 10-metre walk from our apartment and taking a long walk along the beach is the perfect way to start each day. We have not yet had a chance to fully explore the town, but from what we have seen so far, it looks like it is bursting with character.

The apartment and sun terrace in Mahdia

The Antonine baths & old Tunis

We completed a tour of our final ancient ruin here in Carthage and wandered the medina and quieter streets of old Tunis, this week.

Our first stop was the Antonine baths, an interesting display of Roman architecture that was built between 145 and 162 A.D. It’s always thought provoking to see how advanced the technology was back then and the basement gave us an insight into the installation that would have run the baths. We continue to be amazed by the ingenuity of these folks.

After the visit to the Antonine baths, we decided to explore the old town of Tunis. We took a taxi directly to Parliament Square and were struck by the tranquil atmosphere, which was enhanced by the fact that the area was pedestrianised. We made our way through the backstreets to Tourbet el Bey, a Tunisian royal mausoleum that was opened in 1777. It was the last resting place of most of the Husainid dynasty rulers of Tunisia, and we were fascinated by the fact that the tombs pre-1921 were marked with a turban, as a headstone and post-1921 with a fez. The mausoleum was bigger than we had expected and had several chambers, which added to the intrigue.

From there, we ventured into the medina, a bustling market filled with artisans creating and selling their wears. It was a friendly place split between the traditional craftsmen and the modern-day stalls selling cheap products that the younger people seemed to be more interested in.

The ornate doors were a standout feature, with imaginative good luck designs, and it was interesting to learn that most of the doors had two or three door knockers, which denoted how many wives the master of the house had.

The picturesque Sidi Bou Said

Sidi Bou Said has been around since the early 12th century when it began as a religious settlement. However, it didn’t become the bohemian paradise it is today until the Husainid dynasty arrived in the early 18th century, bringing and attracting the finest musicians and writers of the time. This laid the foundation for Sidi to be recognized as an international haunt for artists, more about that later.

Sidi Bou Said, like Byrsa, is set high up overlooking the Gulf of Tunis, which means you have to climb through the town to reach the main attraction, the “Palace Dar Nejma Ezzahra”. You enter through a set of large yellow arched doors decorated with typical Tunisian designs. From there, you wander under the shade of cypress trees laced with vibrant bougainvillea and catch glimpses of the sea before reaching a sprawling ranch-style building whitewashed with blue shutters, doors, and accents (all the buildings throughout the old town follow this theme).

The building was commissioned by Baron d’Erlanger, a wealthy French musicologist/artist who spent time there with his wife and son, working hard to cement Sidi’s status as a favorite haunt for international artists.

Upon entering the palace, you’re immediately drawn to the incredibly ornate carved ceilings fashioned by local Tunisian artists using locally sourced materials. There are quite a few themes running throughout, but it all seems to work. The palace also features a musical instrument museum showcasing both African and other instruments, which was impressive by today’s standards, but must have been incredible at the time. It was a really chilled place and very relaxing to mooch about.

After exploring the palace, we wound our way down through the beautiful little town which bares a striking resemblance to Santorini, before making our way down to the marina to sit and stare out across the Gulf, and watch the young sailors learning how to master their Opi’s (Optimus)….remembering when Seb and Christien first learnt to sail.

Carthage the archeological district of Tunisia

Welcome to Carthage, the archeological district of Tunisia. Although the Romans destroyed Carthage, it remains one of the most fascinating places to visit in Tunisia. After taking a short walk to Byrsa Hill through some lovely streets, we were treated to amazing views. As we walked around the ancient site, which was built during Hannibal’s time, we couldn’t help but use our imagination to envision what life was like. The Byrsa Quarter, built during the 2nd century, was burned to the ground in 146 BC. Fortunately, a layer of rubble prevented the quarter from being completely razed, allowing us a glimpse of what the quarter might have looked like. The backdrop to the site was just as impressive, with the Acropolium or St Louis Cathedral standing tall on top of the ruins of the temple of Eshmun, the Punic god of healing. The site was a recognized ecclesiastical house of worship until the early 90s and now plays host to classical concerts, etc. Despite dodging a few rain showers, it was an interesting way to spend a Sunday. On Saturday, we decided to explore Tunis by taking a tram into the city. However, the hustle and bustle of the city proved to be a bit overwhelming for us, and we soon realized that we weren’t in the mood for the crowds. We finally went to explore what fills our windows, the Îlot de l’Amirauté, the center of the port. This area housed the warships that terrorized would-be marauders and frustrated Rome during a century of Punic wars. It was interesting to see how such a small port played such a significant role in the history of Carthage.

We’re in Carthage, Tunisia

We traveled to Heathrow for a late afternoon flight with the help of our neighbor, Gerry, who kindly offered to drive us since he was heading in to West London to visit family.

Our flight from T4 departed an hour and a half later than scheduled, resulting in us arriving at our destination around 10 pm. After a slight delay at customs, where Rachel had to explain why she was carrying dumbbells in her carry-on, something she always does, we took a cab to our accommodation at L’abri Côtier (The Coastal Shelter). Although it was a bit challenging to locate the place, we eventually found it, and our host, Hedia, gave us a tour before we retired for the night. As expected, travel days can be exhausting, so we both slept in the next day. After we got ready, Hedia kindly showed us where the supermarket and vegetable stall were, and we stocked up before returning to the apartment for a late breakfast.

The apartment is modern, well-designed, and has everything we need. It’s situated in a prime location right on the banks of the ancient “Punic” Port. Unfortunately, not much remained after the Romans destroyed most of the Punic buildings in 146 BC following a century of fighting against them. The port isn’t very large, but apparently, it was once home to 200 warships. Nowadays, it is home to small fishing boats, about a dozen at most.

During our early morning walks, we were able to watch many of them return to the port and repair their nets before exploring the surrounding streets and admiring some impressive trees and homes. It’s a peaceful place during the day with warm and friendly locals who’ve been very welcoming.

Carthage, Tunisia

Cambridge, the British weather & the Ouse burst its banks

It’s been a while since I’ve caught up on the blog, but it’s good to get back on it. It’s been quite a rollercoaster of weather here in the UK lately – one moment we’re basking in sunshine and the next we’re bracing ourselves for some biblical event. But that hasn’t stopped us from enjoying our time here….armed of course with the right clothing.

Last week, we took a trip to Cambridge with Jon and Jo. Despite the chill in the air, we had a blast wandering around the city, taking in some of the sights and sounds. We stopped off for a delicious, healthy lunch before making our way to the Fitz William Museum, which amongst other artefacts houses Monet’s “Le Printemps” one of my favourite pieces of art!After the museum, we stumbled upon a charming little tea shop overlooking a green space, where we warmed up, drank unusual teas and listened to some good tunes. It was the perfect end to a lovely day. We stopped into see Rachel’s mum, before heading back home.

Of course, the weather hasn’t always been on our side – we’ve had a few days of restricted walks thanks to the River Ouse bursting its banks. But that just put a different spin on the landscape on our early morning walks….we’ve had quite a few.

We’re getting ready for our next adventure and had to make a trip down South to swap out our winter gear for spring and summer clothes, and had the chance to catch up with some old friends along the way. We even got to give Christien a quick hug before he headed off on a ski trip.

All in all, life is good and we’re grateful for every moment we get to spend with the people we love. And speaking of which, we recently had dinner with Rachel and Keith – always a riot! I’ll update you all on where we’re off to next.

A long weekend in North Yorkshire

We left Cobham at just after midday on Friday and headed north, to spend a long weekend with Seb and Ally. It’s just over 220 miles door to door. The first 2 hours of the which were spent sitting on the dreaded M25 ( London’s orbital road network, AKA “Europe’s largest car-park”) , where I sat playing mind games, whilst Rach tapped away on her keyboard. It took a further 3 hrs to get to Little Fenton and we arrived under the cover of darkness, trying to enter the wrong gate with the right code and scaring the neighbours, which we both laughed at after Bella (Ally’s younger sister) had pointed us in the right direction. Chris & Lesley (Ally’s folks) had headed off to Spain for a long weekend and so had very kindly offered their lovely house for us to stay at for the weekend. We had intended to go to puppy training with Seb, but as we’d arrived later than expected, we rustled up some food for Seb and Arlo instead for when they returned. Ally was at a networking event that evening, so wouldn’t be joining us. It was great catching with Seb and Bella, whilst Arlo spent most of the evening chasing his tail and leaping up on us, he’s very friendly and Seb assures me that the gun-dog training is working! The following day we walked up to see Seb and Ally’s farm project for the first time, which I must admit looked very daunting, but I’m sure will be fantastic when it’s complete. But for the next year or so they are staying in a rather posh looking mobile home, not at all what we imagined. Ally prepared a very welcome brunch, after which Seb and I went outside to plant small shrubs into some of the gaps in the hedgerows…I don’t see Seb as often as I’d like, so it’s a real treat spending time together. Later that day, and as a first for Rach & I, Ally & Seb took us into Leeds for diner at an Asian restaurant. After dinner we had a good wander around the city, whilst soaking up some of the Saturday night atmosphere. On Sunday we all met up with Josh and Becky and Arlo’s mum and sister, (Winnie & Wilma) for a good walk and chat, as we strolled through some of the surrounding countryside, watching the dogs run around tirelessly, we then headed back to Ally and Seb’s for a delicious Sunday roast. It was great fun catching up with everybody and getting a peek into Seb and Ally’s project and catching up with all of the Watson’s.

A funeral and catching up with Rhubarb in Cobham

The main reason for heading back to the UK was for Rachel’s fathers funeral, which took place in Whitstable in Kent. Fred, Rachel’s dad had chosen the church whilst spending a long summer there with Rachel’s sister Ruth. We made the journey from Hartford, which took us across & through the Dartford Crossing, (the busiest estuarial crossing in the UK, which essentially links Kent and Essex) it’s the first time I’d been across it. We arrived at the very small church (30 seats) built in 1140 and known simply as “the Old Church.” The service was very touching, with Fred being laid to rest in the small graveyard, feet facing out to sea, as he wanted and everyone raising a glass to him in the pub thereafter. I’ve also been doing little jobs for my parents, whilst Rach has been looking in on her mum everyday, which has kept us both busy…Rachel especially, as she’s had to fit everything in around work. We’d willingly agreed to look after our surrogate doggo Rhubarb, in Cobham for a week, as Rachel & Keith were heading off on vacation. After fighting the Saturday morning traffic we arrived early afternoon and after unloading we took Rhubarb for a brisk walk, which is always entertaining with both the anticipation pre-walk and then chasing around a good old stick! Christien popped in to see us early evening, for a bite to eat and a good chat which is always nice. Early every morning we exercise with gym, yoga, hot tub, for Rach, cold tub for me ( I just about managed 2 minutes….Keith reads his book in it 😂) Rach works and at lunchtime we’d take Rhubarb out for a good walk (the best part of the day), there’s some wonderful walks close by and he’s such a nice chap to be around night and day. It was nice to spend time with Joel and catch up with Ella, before we headed off. A really nice week and just what Rachel needed after the week before.

Heading back to the UK for a few weeks

We landed back in the UK nearly three weeks ago, on a late Saturday afternoon and as they say, to be forewarned is to be forearmed. So expecting freezing temperatures we’d packed the warmest clothes we had in our carry-on’s and climbed into them as we left the aircraft and boy we needed them, it was bloody freezing! We picked up a hire car and raced up M11 to Peterborough to be with Rachel’s mum, who sadly isn’t well at all, and it was really nice to sit with her for the evening. We then spent a few days with Jon & Jo which is always great fun and this time was no exception . From there, we headed down to my brothers, as Rach had some team meetings in that area to be around for. So I took the opportunity to catch up with some friends, Andy in Sandhurst on one day, Paul in Mattingley on another and also my brother and nephew in Sunningdale. And finally a tasty birthday lunch with Rachel and Christien on the Sunday, before heading up to my parents in Hartford, where we’ve been for nearly a couple weeks. Rachel’s mum lives about 30 minutes from my folks, so Rach has popped in everyday and I’ve tagged along every other. We’ve gotten back into our early morning walks around Hartford, especially down to the marina and along the banks of the river Ouse, which never gets old for either of us. I’m not especially keen on the cold, unless I’m skiing, but on those winter mornings when the sky is that vibrant colbalt blue colour and there’s a heavy frost decorating the landscape, it really is something special.

The visitor, Papagayo & good food!

We had a very welcome visitor this last week….Christien surprised us and popped out for a long weekend, to cheer his mum up. We picked him up from the airport and decided to go for dinner in Aricife, which is both where the airport lies and the capital. We found a nice little Tapas bar hidden away down one of the back streets, which was very good. After dinner we stretched our legs around the old harbour, with little boats seeming to rest under the soft lights. The following day we headed south to Papagayo, it’s about 45 minutes from where we’re staying, with the last 3km being an off-road track that wind up and down the mountains, which gives you a sense of achievement, when you finally arrive high above the seven beaches. It was a further 20 minutes traversing the cliff edge to get to the beach we’d chosen, but again well worth the effort. There were plenty of sailing and windsurf races going on so it made for compelling viewing to just watch and relax. We took the long way home, driving over one of the mountains and dropping into the incredible lava fields below, before stopping in at the Stratus restaurant in la Geria, the wine region. It was so good the first time we went, we thought Christien would like it too. Rach and Christien tucked into the delicious wines, before we all feasted on some tasty meat and fish. It was really nice being together again laughing and joking, he’s great fun! The following day we pointed the car south again this time towards Playa Blanca and specifically the red mountain, which is a volcano that you are able walk up (many you can’t), before descending into its crater (150m in diameter) it took us about 45 minutes to walk up to the top and offered great panorama’s across to Fuertaventura and the southern tip of the island and beyond. A couple of hours later we were on our way to the marina and the Red House restaurant, for a few drinks and some more good fish. Rach had seen a few nice bits in a boutique in the marina that she liked, so we picked them up and Christien bought a necklace for Georgina. When we got back to the villa we settled down to watch a whodunnit film, something we don’t do often, but it was entertaining. We woke to a windy morning, but had decided the night before to go for a nice long walk along Femara beach and watch the surfers. I dropped Christien off at the airport for a mid afternoon flight…I never like seeing him leave. We didn’t do too much for the rest of the week, as Rach had plenty on and weather wasn’t great, but Friday we got out and had a really chilled last full day.