The swimming remains great, and as Rach only has a few short weeks, we’ve been on a quest to explore as much of the bottom half of Sicily as we can. One of our stops was Syracuse, which incidentally is the birthplace of Archimedes and dates back to at least the 7th century BC. We began our exploration by deciding to visit Ortigia first. It is connected to Syracuse by a couple of bridges, and the best way to experience it is by foot, which takes a couple of hours or even longer if, like us, you stop for a leisurely lunch at the harbor to look out over the collection of small boats and the crystal clear Ionian Sea.

As we entered Ortigia, the first thing that caught our attention was a statue of Archimedes. In terms of architecture, Ortigia offers a variety of styles, including Greek, Roman, Medieval Norman, and some fabulous Baroque buildings. Not to mention the wonderful fountains that all seem to appear randomly as you wander through the streets and alleyways. However, the highlight of our visit was the Piazza del Duomo. This charming pedestrian square is home to the magnificent Cathedral, which was built on the site of an ancient Temple of Athena. The original Doric columns incorporated into the building’s main structure clearly showcase its journey through the ages.

On the southern tip of the island, we found Castello Maniace, a bastion built in 1239. After a slow saunter back to towards the mainland, we ended up leaving Ortigia a little later than planned, with the heat having drained our batteries (getting old). We decided to visit the catacombs, which are second only in size, to those in Rome and are currently the only ones open to the public. Access is through what remains of the San Giovanni church, where there are around 20,000 underground tombs nestled into tunnels that intricately weave through the earth, connecting former Greek cisterns that were later transformed into chapels by early Christians. Alongside rows of graves that once housed extended families, we also encountered a few faded frescoes and early Christian symbols etched into stone slabs. While I wasn’t as interested as Rach in seeing this, I have to admit it was a thought-provoking experience.

We’ve settled in quickly here in Santa Maria del Focallo, on the southern tip of Sicily. It’s about 100 meters from one of the inviting stretches of sandy beach, and we make that short walk every morning. So far, the blue flag beaches have been perfect for swimming.

We’re approximately an hour away from Ragusa, a town rich in history and the birthplace of Baroque architecture. As we approached Ragusa, we were greeted with an absolutely stunning view across an ancient ravine, where incredible buildings seemed to cling to the walls of the gorge. We decided to enter through “Ibla,” the lower part of town, and found a place to park. One of the town guides then pointed us in the direction of the highlights. Adding to the spectacle, Ibla is accessed by an imposing staircase that leads to beautiful winding streets and alleyways. Finally, the delightful “Basilica di San Giorgio,” situated on top of around 200 steps, came into view. Wherever we turned, the charm of the buildings captivated us.

Most of this area, including Noto, Modica, Scicli, and Catania, was rebuilt in 1693 after a terrible earthquake struck the eastern side of Sicily. However, Ibla wasn’t completely destroyed and still retains pockets of Gothic and Medieval architecture. After spending several hours immersed in the charm of this place, we stopped for a delicious late “feast” before returning home to enjoy the remaining sunlight. Our host, Cicero, has made us feel incredibly welcome, even bringing us delicious fruits and vegetables from his garden. When we mentioned our plan to visit Modica, he insisted on personally showing us his hometown.

Modica is nestled at the bottom of the same gorge as Ragusa, and as you approach, you’re met with an equally impressive view of breathtaking architecture, with the centerpiece being the “Church of San Giorgio.” Yes, there is a church with the same name in both Ragusa and Modica, honoring the same saint but on different days to maintain their individual significance. Modica is connected by a series of steps that link the upper and lower parts of the town, revealing hidden alleys and marvelous buildings. For about three hours, we strolled around while Cicero proudly explained the wonders of this beautiful town.

Since our arrival, the temperature has consistently exceeded 35 degrees. After hours of exploration, we needed to refuel. We were recommended to try “Ornato,” one of the best fish restaurants we’ve been to in a while, where everything is homemade and is delicious. After complimenting the chef, we headed to what Cicero claimed to be the best gelato in the area for Rachel. She promptly declared it the best she’d ever tasted, and she’s no stranger to ice cream. We also met a Turophile, who introduced us to some of Sicilys delicious cheeses, many of which we ended up leaving with. Our final stop was the famous chocolatiers “Bonajuto”, who have been making chocolate the same way for over 400 years. Needless to say, Rachel stocked up on their delectable treats!

After three incredibly enjoyable months, it’s time for a new adventure. Tunisia has truly surprised us, and we’ve met some of the kindest people since we started our travels nearly two years ago. From market traders and cab drivers to fishermen and our wonderful hosts, everyone has warmly welcomed us into their country. It’s difficult to pick a favorite part of Tunisia, but I think the remote and arid beauty of the southwest, around the desert, stands out the most.

Mo On Saturday, June 17th, I put together an ambitious travel plan to leave Tunisia. If we missed any flights, we’d be stuck with our car and accommodation left waiting. Since we were staying in a remote location quite far from the airport, there is always the doubt of will the driver over sleep. However, my fears were unfounded as he arrived early. So, at 5:15 am, we set off for the airport, and just over an hour later, we arrived for a flight scheduled to depart at 7:45 am and arrive in Tunis an hour later.

After checking ourselves in and wondering if we would see our luggage for a while, as there was a 45-minute window for loading our luggage and checking in. We had prepared for the worst by packing our carry-ons with essential items. The flight departed just after 8:00 am and landed in Tunis at 9:05 am, giving us a 25-minute window to catch our next flight to Palermo.

Fortunately, we were seated next to the exit, we quickly grabbed our cases and were the first to disembark. As we reached the bottom of the stairs, I found out from the attendant that the same plane was heading to Palermo, which was a relief. However, even though we were already checked in, we had to go back through the departure hall to get our passports stamped before reboarding the plane. Thankfully, everyone in the airport was understanding and allowed us to push in at the front of every line. We eventually reached the gate at 9:35 am, where they had held the plane for us. Drenched in sweat and filled with adrenaline, we flopped into our seats—phew!

We landed in Palermo just before midday and were relieved to see our two suitcases, which were the first to arrive on the baggage belt. Renting the car proved to be a bit more challenging, but after some careful negotiation, we eventually got what we had paid for and hit the road to drive from Palermo to Santa Maria del Focallo, embarking on a 300km journey through the incredibly mountainous and green terrain—a complete contrast from what we had become accustomed to. I should have taken more pictures, but there weren’t many places to pull over, and honestly, we needed to meet our host to ensure we could get into the villa. So, after a five-hour drive through breathtaking landscapes, we finally arrived around 7 pm, utterly exhausted but relieved to have made it here.

Alright, it’s another Star Wars day! Our first stop was Matmata, about 3 hours west of Zarzis. As you approach the desert, a long, dusty road leads you into Matmata’s unique architectural landscape. The town is famous for its stone-carved underground and mountainside troglodyte homes. These historic structures, made famous by Star Wars, are unfortunately disappearing as their mostly Berber inhabitants emigrate to cities and towns.

One notable location is the Hotel Sidi Driss, which was chosen as the setting for Luke’s family home due to its distinctive underground architecture. We learned that these nomadic dwellings are constructed by digging a circular, deep hole in the soft sandstone using simple hand tools. Caves are then excavated in and around the pit to create underground chambers, with the main pit serving as a courtyard that remains cool in summer and warm in winter. These nomadic tribes remained relatively unknown to the outside world until the 1960s when catastrophic flooding brought them to the attention of the Tunisian government.

Arriving outside Sidi Driss felt like stepping into a Star Wars shrine. It’s not the most private hotel to stay at, as tourists flock here, especially during the season, thanks to “Galaxy Tours.” We paid a small entrance fee to explore the hotel. I’m not sure what I was expecting, but I guess I envisioned something more expansive. However, Rachel was undeterred and enjoyed exploring, while I eventually suggested that we move on.

As we headed southwest, we were once again treated to the desert landscape, with stretches of hot and hazy road snaking through it. It wasn’t uncommon to only encounter a couple of vehicles in an hour. We tried not to dwell on the thought of breaking down, and neither of us mentioned it until we were safely home. We drove through a small hamlet and stopped outside Ksar Hadada a fortified granary or (ksar), located in Tataouine and a Star Wars-famous location converted into a hotel, albeit a slightly more upscale one. I had the opportunity to peek inside one of the rooms, which turned out to be more spacious than I had imagined. Set on three floors, the top bedrooms managed to accommodate double beds, with the rooms connected by a narrow carved staircase. It was a bit bewildering to see a cave with three floors, but I could understand the appeal of spending a night or two here.

For me, the highlight of the day undoubtedly came as we wound our way through the rugged landscape. Its harshness held a unique beauty, and to top off what would be our last excursion in Tunisia, we were fortunate enough to drive past a Golden Wolf (Yellow Jackal) standing on a dune, surveying undoubtedly its territory. Absolutely fantastic!

I must give credit to my navigator, who dedicated long evenings researching and planning our routes. Google Maps sort of works, but it’s always looking for a quicker route, which, with patchy internet and often rough roads, isn’t a good idea. So, we always need an outline of our route in advance. We set off in the mid-morning, heading south towards the edge of the Sahara—a place that had us both excited.

After navigating through the local traffic, we made our way to Tataoine, which is about 100km and then another 18km to reach Chenini, with the final stretch taking us into the Atlas Mountains. I’m a big fan of mountains, and though the Atlas Mountains aren’t particularly high, they still inspire awe. As we wound our way around them, we were treated to extraordinary ochre vistas, with small hamlets and date palms scattered here and there, indicating the presence of underground water sources. What caught our attention was a perfect waterline halfway up the mountain range….wow! this place filled with water must have been incredible to see.

At the foot of an ancient Berber village, we arrived. (The Berber people, the indigenous population of North Africa, were driven into the harsh south due to wars with the more battle-ready Arabs from the East). It was just us and a chap who approached our car. Strangely, we seemed to hit it off (fated I’m sure), and with a good feeling and a desire to explore the rich history (my grandmother, who hailed from Algeria, was also Berber), he jumped in the car, becoming our guide for the next few hours.

Our first stop was the beautiful “Mosque of the Seven Sleepers.” According to legend, seven Christians slept here for over 400 years before converting to Islam. Each of them grew to an enormous height, becoming true giants. We also enjoyed the local interpretation, which involved six men and a dog who slept here for four centuries before waking up and seeking food in the village. Unfortunately, the villagers were afraid and drove them back into the cave, which was then sealed, with the mosque then built above. Interestingly the minaret leans slightly eastward, while the pointed dome deliberately tips even further towards Mecca, making this little mosque truly unique.

From there, we ascended to marvel at the troglodyte houses and storage rooms carved into the mountains, Rachel particularly liked the olive oil press. They were truly incredible, as were the panoramic views stretching across the mountains and into the Sahara. It’s difficult to capture the beauty that lies within the harshness of this place, but it’s simply stunning, and our guide was excellent!

Reluctantly, we tore ourselves away, as it was getting late and we had planned a stop at Ksour Ouled Soltanes. However, upon arrival, we found ourselves walking straight into a film set. It was all top secret, and it was amusing to see nearly all the curious villagers gathered in the small square. I had a quick chat with the Tunisian location director to see if there was any chance for Rachel and I to have a look around. After a conversation on the walkie-talkie, presumably with the producer, and a 45-minute wait, we managed to have a quick 10-minute walk around before filming resumed.

Constructed by the Berber people, the ghorfas were stacked grain-holding buildings and have withstood the hot climate since the 15th century. Although they have been abandoned for many years, the Ksar was originally built for protection against raids and designed to remain cool in the arid weather near the Sahara Desert. They were fascinating to look at with access into each ghorfa via the footholds to the front of the buildings only, so that would be marauder’s could be easily seen.

We are staying just under the island of Djebra, which, at 514 km², is about twice the size of Malta and is the largest island in North Africa. It’s about a 40-minute drive from us, and there are several ways to get there. You can fly there; it has Tunisia’s second-largest airport. It can also be reached by small ferries that run between several destinations in the north. Finally, there is a narrow 7.5km Roman causeway, built in the second century, which links it to the mainland, and that’s the route we took. We got onto the island just after noon and decided to head north.

Our first stop was at the 14th-century Fadhloun Mosque, a curious-looking piece of architecture with its different-sized domes. As it sits on the high point in the small town, it was also used as a lookout and bastion in wars of the past. It’s even rumored to have given George Lucas inspiration for the Star Wars sets. From there, we took a quick glance at Houmt Souk, the capital, saving it for another time, as we wanted to visit El Ghriba, Africa’s oldest synagogue.

El Ghriba was founded at the time of the destruction of the First or Second Jewish Temple in Jerusalem, around 586 BCE, and it contains a stone from the temple. Today, the synagogue, which was rebuilt in the 19th century, has a colorful wooden interior that exudes a calming and serene atmosphere. To highlight its importance in the Jewish world, a pilgrimage takes place here every May.

Djebrahood is an open gallery of sorts, where artists from across the world were invited to contribute to a project adorning the entire small village with murals. It’s already a beautiful little village, filled with artisan shops, and the murals only enhance its charm. We spent a relaxed day in Djebra, with minimal driving, which I was happy about.

We couldn’t leave Djebra without stopping by Obi-Wan’s house, although not signposted, we found it isolated not far from the sea. Despite its slightly worn appearance, it still stood strong, and we couldn’t help but smile when we peeked inside to discover a lively mothers meeting in full swing!

We set off mid-morning for a journey from the east of the country across to the western side next to the desert border, to visit Tozeur and a few other sites we were excited about seeing. We picked up the main P1 highway, which took us up to Gabes, there we peeled off and headed west. We started the journey with the familiar olive trees neatly lined up either side, but the further west we drove, the olive trees were slowly replaced by huge swathes of date palms. The further we went the more the landscape changed, becoming more arid. I’m guessing that the desert winds had a lot to do with it.

At just over halfway into the journey we were joined by the wonderful Atlas Mountains that stretch across all of North Africa. The final 100km stretch linking Kebili to Tozeur took us along a thin strip of road through the middle of Chott el Djerid, a salt pan, which stretches some 250kms and is pretty stunning. After just over 400kms and nearly 5 hours in the car we arrived in Tozeur, an oasis, boasting over 400 thousand palms. We had tried to book a place to stay on route, but the 3G signal we had, we dedicated solely to google maps. So we decided over a late lunch that we would spend the night at the Dar Horchani, which sits on its own palm oasis, about a 20 minute drive out of town. When we arrived we were met by the owner, who warmly welcomed us proudly showing us around the place, emphasising that all of the materials used were local and ethically sourced. The lodges themselves were made from recycled palm trees. Despite there being 25 unique rooms, we were fortunate to be the only guests staying in our small, comfortable intimate suite that night. We enjoyed a delicious dinner of local dishes in an private setting and took a final stroll around the property before turning in for the night.

The following morning, after stretching and a quick breakfast, we hit the road again early. Our first stop was Chebika, Tunisia’s first oasis. It was formed by an earthquake that created a canyon with an extraordinary natural spring. We also found it intriguing to discover fossilized shells halfway up the gorge, suggesting the presence of a body of water in the past. The view across the mountains was awe-inspiring, reminding us of the beauty of our planet. Chebika provided a tranquil and serene atmosphere. Next stop was to the other side of Naftah, it’s about 100 kms from Chebika the gateway to the Sahara and next to the Algerian border. We sought to find “Lars Homestead,” the iconic building used as Luke Skywalker’s house in one of the very first scenes of the original “Star Wars” film, “A New Hope” (1977). As mentioned in an earlier post, although the film was shot extensively in southern Tunisia, most of the locations have long been abandoned, and directions to reach them are not readily available, which we agreed we were actually quite pleased about. The only recognizable landmark we had was a large ranch-style property, which we still managed to miss. After stopping by the road near the ranch, we learned that the homestead was 2.5 km off-road, across Chott el Djerid, and not visible from the road. With temperatures reaching around 35 degrees Celsius (regularly exceeding 50 degrees Celsius in the area), walking the distance would have meant a 5 km round trip, assuming we were heading in the right direction. There was no one else around, and the mobile signal was patchy at best, as I discovered on my way back from a quick scouting mission. However, I noticed some tire tracks that appeared to be dry and firm, indicating recent travel, but I had no idea of where and how far they went and stepping off it would have risked our car getting stuck in the greasy mud with no traction. Despite these challenges common sense had deserted us both, we decided to take the car along the track and see what fate had in store for us. Driving very slowly armed only with blind faith and some dogged determination we set off and after what seemed like ages, but was probably only 10 minutes or so, it began to appear in the distance like a mirage, we were like a couple of excited kids again seeking and touching this piece of iconic memorabilia. After taking some pics and gawping at it for a while longer, we carefully retraced our tracks and made it back to the road and the start of our 500km journey back to Zarzis. A fantastic trip!

It has been a month since our arrival in Mahdia, and it was time for us to move on. We had made arrangements with our new host for a car to pick us up and embark on the long journey south. Late Saturday morning, after packing all our luggage, shopping, and kitchen supplies (we’ve learned it’s best to stock up on essentials when we arrive in a new place), we set off on our Tunisian adventure with Omar, our getaway driver for this 400 km leg of the trip.

The first hour and a half was a white knuckle ride through backstreets, eventually leading us to the country’s main highway, which saw us race through the now familiar olive groves Strangely at pretty much the mid-point, the sky appeared to darken without any clouds in sight. By the time we reached the toll booth at Gabes, we found ourselves in the midst of a sandstorm. The biting winds from the west were carrying Sahara sands across our path, and this continued for the remainder of our four and a half journey until we reached Zarzis.

Zarzis is a smaller town than Mahdia and is located below the small island of Djebra, about 200 km from Tripoli. As I mentioned in an earlier post, we have been experiencing stormy weather with strong winds here in Tunisia and upon our arrival, we found the cleaning team at the villa re-cleaning due to the windows not being properly closed before the night before storm hit. After an early dinner at a restaurant, we returned to the villa to settle in. It is situated directly opposite the beach, offering spacious outdoor areas and a vibrant garden. I love the ornate doors around the property they’re very authentic. Additionally, all the doors and windows have an arched design, which may hold some significance. In Tunisia, the blue color of the doors and windows symbolizes peace and tranquility. The inside’s a bit eclectic though….it’s like moving through different periods in history!

The winter in North Africa was exceptionally dry, impacting not only the local population but also the European food chain, which heavily relies on North African produce during the winter months. The water shortage is a stark reality here, with the supply being turned off every evening at 8 pm and not restored until just after 6 am. While it was initially uncomfortable, it’s remarkable how quickly one adjusts and gains a deeper appreciation for the preciousness of water. Therefore, the rain we’ve experienced over the past 10 days or so, has been greatly welcomed.

During one of the dry weather windows, we decided to visit Sousse, located about 60 km from Mahdia, which took us roughly an hour and 45 minutes on the small tram. We arrived under threatening skies and made our way up through the 11th-century Kasbah to the Sousse Archeological Museum, a small yet wonderfully curated museum primarily showcasing Roman mosaics depicting gods and mythical creatures from the 2nd and 3rd centuries. We were particularly impressed by the Bekalta baptismal font of Byzantine origin. Afterward, we wandered down through the medina to the port and tried out a recommended restaurant, which unfortunately turned out to be a disappointment. However, such experiences are all part of the journey.

We made our way to the easternmost point of Africa, known as Cap D’Afrique. Here, we explored the remnants of a Roman port that later became the center and birthplace of the Fatimid dynasty. Overlooking the port on the hillside, we discovered an ancient cemetery where all the graves were uniformly white, with the same level of detail, symbolising the absence of distinction between rich and poor, there’s also a small basin on each, designed to collect rainwater for birds and small animals, which I thought was wonderful.

El Jem is located inland, to the west of us, and the only ways to get there are either as part of a tour or by taxi, as the amphitheater is located in an isolated small town. Since I preferred to see it through my own eyes rather than through a guide’s, we had to take our chances with a cab. We went into town to look for the safest and comfiest looking car we could find for the hour and fifteen-minute drive and got into the back of Habib’s bright yellow cab. All of the taxis here are yellow. The road out to El Jem was a stretch of tarmac that wound its way through the ochre landscape, passing through occasional hamlets.

Upon arriving, we caught our first glimpse of the sheer size of the colosseum: built in the early 3rd Century, the colosseum is the second-largest in the world (after Rome’s). It is 149m long by 124m wide, with three tiers of seating 30m high, with seating capacity for up to 35,000 people. Today, it’s used as a classical and jazz concert venue. Our driver had to drop us off away from the entrance, which meant that we had to walk around the outside of the structure to enter.

I’m always in complete awe of these incredible buildings that, after almost two millennia, are still standing and largely intact. As you walk into the coliseum and look around, you get a sense of how a gladiator might have felt as he waited to see what he had to defend himself against to save his life, all while the crowds were vying for his blood. This colosseum is unusual in that you can walk through many of the passageways that would have held beasts and prisoners alike before being led out to the arena. You can’t help but try to imagine what the noise and expectation of the 35,000 spectators whipped up into a frenzy would have sounded like.

We spent a couple of hours walking around this incredible place. We would have stayed longer if it weren’t for the fact that we had agreed with our getaway driver to meet him at a certain time for our harum-scarum trip back into Madia.