We left early Friday afternoon and headed southeast towards Braintree, but arranged a rendezvous with Christien in Saffron Walden along the way. He and some friends had Airbnb’d a barn for the weekend, and since we’re headed off next week, a late lunch and good catch-up were definitely in order. It was my first time in Saffron Walden, a picturesque, medieval town in northwest Essex, just 15 miles south of Cambridge for those, like me, who hadn’t been before.

We arrived in Braintree late afternoon and spent the evening catching up with Jon & Jo. The following morning, bathed in late September sunshine, we took Ozzie for a good walk along the Fitch, a repurposed railway track, and across some fields. Afterward, we decided to spend the afternoon in Suffolk, a region we hadn’t explored much before. Specifically, we wandered around Lavenham, one of the most important and best-preserved medieval villages in England.

That evening, we made our way to El Pulpo, a Spanish tapas restaurant the girls had been keen to visit. The food was okay, but the atmosphere was lively. Ozzie was eager for another walk the next morning, so after a quick breakfast, we found ourselves walking through another wooded area, with Oz happily leading the way.

Back in Hartford, with September coming to a close, the weather was turning cooler and wetter, unmistakably signaling that it was time to move on. It felt like the perfect time to seek out new surroundings and follow the sun to our next destination.

With Mum back in fighting shape, the three of us headed down to Cobham to look after Rhubarb for the week, which is always a huge pleasure. We arrived late Sunday afternoon, and after giving Rhubarb a good cuddle—unfortunately, he’s lost most of his sight and hearing, but his nose is still good and he’s as gentle as ever. We also looked forward to catching up with Joel and hearing all about what he’s been up to.

The following day, after stretching and lifting some weights in the gym, while Rachel put Mum through her paces in the yoga studio, which Mum apparently really enjoyed the girls made their way to the jacuzzi. Meanwhile, I faced the ice barrel set at a barmy 8 degrees, with the option to slide it down to 4 degrees. Not a chance. On my first attempt, I think I managed about a minute before rushing off to find a warm shower. After throwing on some clothes and Rachel and Mum tearing themselves away from the Jacuzzi, we helped Rhubarb into his special car, and off we went to the woodland behind the golf course for the old chap to saunter through the forest. He used to be able to go for hours, but these days a good 45 minutes is fine.

That was pretty much the morning routine every day for the week. I also found Keith’s gloves and rediscovered the power of meditation, managing just under 9 minutes and really enjoyed the euphoric feeling during the experience. Mum and I went into Guildford to meet friends, and I popped into Crowthorne to visit an old friend. Christien stopped by one evening after golf, and together with Joel, we all had dinner, which was great fun.

We all enjoy the theatre, so we decided to make a day of it on Saturday. We drove 25 minutes to Morden before jumping on the Northern Line to Covent Garden. After spending a couple of hours wandering around, we headed to the St. Martin’s Lane Theatre to watch the longest-running production (72 years) and entered our matinee for the 29,451st production of Agatha Christie’s “The Mousetrap,” which we all really enjoyed. There’s nothing quite like a live performance. We then went to a lively restaurant for Mum’s first experience with Vietnamese food and chopsticks. She enjoyed the food, but the chopsticks, not so much. Before jumping back on the tube, the two ladies in my life insisted on stopping at the gelato shop apparently it was a must. Interestingly for me, it was directly across from Stringfellows, in infamous nightclub in its day and where I successfully interviewed to start what would be a 14-year career in casinos.

We typically meet as a family somewhere in the middle of the country, but with Seb and Ally recently completing their house build and all of the Watsons also in town, Little Fenton in North Yorkshire was the perfect rendezvous. Rachel had spent most of the week at Christien’s in Wokingham, while Mum and I split the week between there and Huntingdon. The plan had been for Mum and I to drive up, but unfortunately, she picked up a virus, so I traveled up alone, while Rachel and Christien made their way up together. Funnily enough, we both literally pulled into Seb’s driveway from different directions at the same time.

After a good catch-up, we took Arlo and Aura for a nice long walk. Aura spent the first half of her life as a house cat in their apartment, never leaving the flat, but since moving she’s always out and even tags along on Arlo’s walks—a cat with an amazing life! Arlo has endless amounts of energy and is always great fun to be around. I’m convinced he’s got a set of springs in his legs as he bounces through the long grass.

Saturday night, we all went out to a fantastic Italian restaurant and then finished off the evening with some night golf. Christien is the golfer among us but was still beaten by his mum, though he took it well.

Sunday, after a quick trip to the garden center, was the day of the big family barbecue, with a real feast put on by Seb and Ally. Although we don’t see the Watsons as often as we’d like, when we get together, it’s always great fun catching up. We had a wonderful evening.

The following day, we headed down to Chris & Lesley’s for a sauna, ice bath and brunch. They’ve been spending quite a bit of time in Sweden these past couple of years and have really embraced the culture. Apparently, wherever you go in Sweden, you’ll always find a sauna, even on some of the remotest islands. Fun fact: Sweden has over 267,000 islands, more than any other country in the world.

Monday was spent helping out the guys in the dental practice, putting together furniture after the refurbishment. On Tuesday, after Rachel had some dental work done, we said our goodbyes and set off back to Hartford.

Things have gotten pretty busy, well, it’s August after all. But since our day starts early and the crowds arrive late morning, we usually manage to avoid the rush. Evenings, however, are bustling. We decided to take a walk out to the Monastery, which some locals claim has both a mystical aura and great energy. At certain times of the year, by invitation only, you can even sleep around the courtyard. It was about a 40-minute walk, with the final 10 minutes winding through a pine canopy down a gentle set of steps. Although we’ve seen far more stunning ecclesiastical buildings, there was definitely something serene and calming as we walked up to the building and wandered around, enjoying serene views across the bay.

Along the coastal walkway, we’ve found a nice restaurant where it’s easy to lose track of time watching the smiling crowds stroll by. While we haven’t done too much here in Herceg Novi, it’s been easy living, and we’ve really enjoyed it. After nearly three months in Montenegro, it’s time for us to leave. When we arrived, Radenko advised that we would need to leave around midday to make our 6 pm return flight. We quickly realized that wasn’t an option, so we arranged through our host to charter a boat. We got to the dock where the boat was waiting, and after loading the luggage on board, we headed out into the bay, navigating some pretty choppy waters, which we weren’t used to. The trip took us back past Donja Lastva and the Port of Montenegro, with many super yachts anchored outside as the port was packed. After about a 30-minute crossing, we pulled alongside the dock, unloaded the luggage, said our goodbyes, and off we went.

Unfortunately, my efforts to secure a cab failed, so we had to walk the 15 minutes from the doc to the terminal, arriving soaked (we’ve agreed to go down to one suitcase next trip; it’s always challenging on move day… I don’t need much anyway 😂). The airport handles as many private flights as commercial ones, so it was busy, but we made it through with about 45 minutes to spare before takeoff. Landing in London, I received a text informing us that our train and all subsequent trains in our direction had been canceled. By the time I got to the car rental agencies, it seemed everyone had had the same idea to get home. Abandoning all hope of reaching Huntingdon that night, we booked a night at the Bloc Hotel in the airport, which despite its small footprint, had been ingeniously designed, spotless, and we never felt cramped.

It was time for us to move on, and it ended up being a nervy last-minute decision. We had initially planned on taking a cabin up in the mountains, but the internet wasn’t strong enough. With just under a week left before we needed to check out of the apartment and no suitable options found on Airbnb, Booking.com, VRBO, etc., Rach reached out on Facebook. It had worked for us in Mauritius, and fortunately, it worked for us again, although we hadn’t seen the place beforehand.

We’ve been using Radenko as our driver since we arrived, so we arranged with him to take us to Herceg Novi, our next destination in Montenegro. Herceg is about 30km from Donja Lastva on the other side of the bay, so we took the ferry across, turned left and made our way up the coast, which took a further hour and a half. However, Radenko faced a long journey back due to heavy traffic on the road leading to the ferry. This was caused by the mass exodus of Albanians heading back to Albania from Northern Europe, with the ferry route serving as their way home. This traffic, combined with ongoing construction around Tivat, makes summer travel a bit of a nightmare – useful information for our trip back to the airport.

Our apartment is a bit tired, having only recently changed hands, with renovations planned for winter. However, it’s perfectly situated with amazing views across the bay of Herceg Novi on one terrace and views over the Adriatic on the other. Herceg Novi is a small town, and we’re a 10-minute walk from the old town, with its restaurants and interesting walkways. We’re also about 60 meters from the water – or should I say 251 steps, including the 73 in the apartment, as there is no lift. Initially, these steps were quite challenging in the heat, but after being here for nearly three weeks, they’re a breeze.

We’re loving our morning routine here. I’m up early to enjoy the view of the bay before my morning exercise routine. Then we head down to the beach around 8:15 am, where we both swim until around 9-ish. After that, we chill until about 11:00 am before heading back up to the apartment to escape the midday heat. I’ve been indulging myself in all the summer sports, which has been great. When the sun goes down we’ve taken to strolling along the promenade, which stretches some 7km’s and comes alive at night with busy bars and restaurants and people enjoying themselves.

We haven’t ventured too far as Rachel is pretty busy with work, and we’re content to take it easy in this very relaxed corner of Montenegro.

Christien had decided that he was missing both of us, so he jumped on a plane and arrived at the apartment late Monday morning. Even though we talk to the boys regularly, it was nice to spend some in-person time together. Since he had an early start, we spent the first day chilling by the water, catching up, before grabbing a late lunch and taking a walk around the neighborhood. Christien started to melt in the heat, so we headed back to the apartment for an early night.

The next morning, after our usual exercise routine, we caught the 9:00 am white-knuckle bus ride into Kotor to beat the heat and crowds. We spent a few hours showing Christien around before conceding to the weather and returning home. That evening, I had booked a table at Al Posto Giusto, which we believe has the best location in the marina. We watched the sun go down and the boats come in to moor for the night. The walk along the coast was lovely, with the lights twinkling through the old part of Donja Lastva and small sailboats anchored nearby. After watching England beat the Dutch, we all retired happily, preparing for an early start the next day.

Christien’s last day started with an hour of paddle tennis. While we all play tennis, it was our first time trying paddle tennis, which turned out to be really enjoyable. I can see why it’s become so popular. Afterward, we quickly showered at the beach and had breakfast, which was exactly what we needed.

I had arranged with Radenko, our driver during our stay, to take us to the cable car. He picked us up and dropped us off at the cable car station. It felt a bit strange getting into a cable car in 35-degree heat with not a single snowflake in sight. The ride took about 15 minutes to reach the start of Lovćen National Park. The views on the way up were beautiful, and the vista across the Bay of Kotor was stunning!

At the station above, we had the option to hike 12 km to the Njegos Mausoleum, which would take over 4 hours, or take an air-conditioned minibus to the steps leading up to the mausoleum. Ten minutes later, we were at the foot of the 461 steps that led to the world’s highest mausoleum, where Montenegro’s greatest hero, Petar II Petrović Njegoš, rests beneath a golden mosaic canopy. A 28-tonne statue depicting Njegoš, carved from a single block of black granite and resting in the wings of an eagle, stood nearby. It was hard to imagine how they got it up there.

We stopped for an enjoyable lunch at Restaurant Vidikovac, which is actually woven into the side of the mountain, so you can enjoy the views while you eat. Along the way back to the cable car, we also stopped at the Monte 1350 bar, which is perched on the cliff-edge, with deckchairs laid out to relax in. It was another fantastic trip!

We left the apartment around 8:30 am, and by 9:00 am, we had safely boarded the car onto the ferry for a quick hop across to the other side of the bay. This route saved us from an otherwise near-impossible drive through Kotor, which would have taken about an hour and a half to navigate. Once across the water, we headed north. A short drive later, we began ascending the twisting mountain roads, traversing the first set of mountains that surround the Bay of Kotor, also known as Boka. There were some great views, stretching out across the bay with small uninhabited islands visible on a side of the bay we hadn’t seen before.

About two hours into the drive, with the Adriatic Sea a distant memory to our west, we moved further inland through one valley after another. The architecture of the houses changed too, adopting a mountain chalet style that one might expect much further north. It’s hard to believe, but the Dinaric Alps, rising to just above 2000 meters, hosts around 11 ski resorts. Unfortunately, as we discovered later, it hasn’t snowed up here for a few years, posing challenges for the local community, although the area remains popular with hikers.

We arrived at Durmitor National Park, a UNESCO Site, just after midday. After parking, we had a short amble through the forest to the renowned Black Lake, which was quite a sight to behold. Interestingly, there are two lakes there—the main lake and a smaller one behind it. Our plan was to hike around both lakes, and opting for a more adventurous route off the beaten track added an extra hour to our journey. The cloud cover which kept the temperature comfortably in the mid-twenties, added to our enjoyment.

After a late lunch, we jumped back into the car and ventured deeper into the park to see Europe’s deepest gorge, the Tara Canyon, which also ranks as the 9th deepest canyon in the world. We were advised that the best viewpoint was from a parking area where we could walk along a nearby bridge. It was truly worth the effort, and experiencing the canyon was a fantastic way to cap off our day.

Staying longer than we’d planned, we risked some night driving to make it out of the mountains and back to the ferry whilst it was still light, but arrived at around 8:30 pm just as the sun disappeared. We were pretty exhausted from the long drive, but both of us were smiling after a long, but unforgettable day.

With the thermometer firmly stuck in the high 30s, we decided to seek out somewhere cooler to spend the rest of the weekend and settled on the Lipa Cave in Cetinje. We set off around 9 ish and arrived just after 10:30 am. After securing our modestly priced tickets, we made our way to the tractor and carriages that would take us down the side of the mountain to the mouth of the cave.

We had been advised to bring sturdy shoes and a jacket, which given how hot is was, I was extremely skeptical about until I stood at the entrance of the cave. Standing there felt like standing in front of an open freezer door. So, after putting on my gilet and wishing I had worn full sleeves, we began our descent into the cave. Our tour was led by a young biologist who was both knowledgeable and engaging. As we wandered around, it felt like we were exploring another planet, with stalagmites and stalactites. In some places, we could see where the two formations had met over thousands of years, forming columns that resembled melted candles. The whole experience was very interesting.

We left the cave around lunchtime and decided to stop not far from there at a recommended restaurant with good food and views across the valley below, with Lake Skadar visible in the distance. After our lazy lunch, we’d decided to take a look at Rijeka Crnojevica and its stone bridge, which marks the entrance to what was once the biggest port in Montenegro during the 19th and 20th centuries. If I’m honest, I wasn’t all that impressed, but while we were there, Rachel talked me into hiring a boat and captain to take us into Skadar Lake National Park, a bird sanctuary that extends into Lake Skadar. This lake is the largest in Southern Europe, with a shared border with Albania running right through its middle.

The flat-bottomed boat navigated seamlessly through the lily beds and tall grasses without damaging the environment or disturbing the numerous species of birds. Against a backdrop of small, but dramatic mountains, an hour and a half later, we were back at the bridge, truly glad that we had taken the trip. It was the perfect way to end the day.

The car rental company dropped off the car on Saturday morning, and off we went. Montenegro sits on the west-central side of the Balkans and on the coastline neighbors Croatia to the north and Albania to the south. Although it is a relatively new country, it has a rich history with plenty to see.

We were heading to Budva old town, about an hour from Tivat. It’s been in the high 30s for about a week now, and today was no different — scorching hot. Undeterred, we parked the car and navigated through a few alleyways into the walled city of Budva. It wasn’t unlike other walled cities we’ve seen on our travels, but it was impressive regardless.

Budva is over 2500 years old with a colorful history. It’s been subject to earthquakes and attacked and oppressed by all Mediterranean warring nations. Despite the hardships of its past, it boasts a colorful array of architectural styles. We spent the morning wandering around the old town, taking in the Citadel overlooking both the good and the bad of Budva. We would have walked around the high walls, but it was just too hot. We did enjoy spending time in the air-conditioned museum, which, although small, housed some interesting artifacts.

Afterward, it was time for lunch at a restaurant just outside the city walls, overlooking a small marina. It was cool sitting under the vine canopy enjoying good food. After a long, lazy lunch, we headed further along the coast to take a look at the famed, but now closed, world-renowned resort on the island of Sveti Stefan (there is an ongoing dispute between the hotel owner and Budva). The beautiful stone houses were built some 500 years ago. We managed to get to the locked door leading to the island, and that is probably as close as we will ever come to staying there. Apparently, even as a guest, a lounger will still cost you 200€ a day to rent.

With its stunning backdrop of steep, imposing mountains that plummet to a narrow inlet of the sparkling Adriatic Sea, Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor, which is about 30km long, is often called Europe’s southernmost fjord. However, the bay is in fact a drowned river canyon. The high mountains that bend around the coastline protect the bay from the open sea and from the cold climate of the north in winter. This also makes for some interesting swimming, as you go through a mix of warm and some pretty chilly patches of water, and if you’re lucky, you might be joined by a dolphin.

Mum is heading back to the UK after spending a couple of weeks with us. As we do most mornings, we walk along the water’s edge and watch as the small town comes to life. About a 5-minute walk from where we are staying, there is a restaurant with a seating area situated on the wharf under some grapevines. Mum and Rachel had been there on a few occasions for a glass of Rosé in the evening. But this morning, we decided to stop in for what turned out to be a great breakfast in a fantastic setting—a great way to send mum on her way.

After lounging around and chilling out on the beach during the day, I decided that we would take a walk down to the Port of Montenegro for dinner. We’ve walked through the port many times during the day, and it’s very impressive indeed. Aside from a few dinghies and some small day cruisers, it’s essentially a marina filled with some huge yachts, mainly Russian & Ukrainian, so I am told, with plenty of bling. We managed to secure an outdoor table at Al Posto Giusto, which sits on the corner of the marina boulevard. Aside from some good food, it was an excellent spot to watch the unashamed display of wealth, with its entourage as it paraded past, making for a very entertaining evening indeed.