We couldn’t resist one more beach walk before starting our drive back west. We traveled from east to west along the N2, the main route through the Garden Route. But, instead of taking the same route back to Cape Town, we decided to take the much longer, yet more scenic, R62. This road winds and weaves through the stunning Overberg, offering some breathtaking views. We planned to break up the journey along the way.

Our first stop was Oudtshoorn, just over 300 km from Jeffreys Bay. The drive was hard to concentrate on because there was so much to take in. It was cloudy for most of the journey, which created dramatic skies, but it was the fog rolling down the mountains that really caught our attention—it was pretty epic. As we got closer to Oudtshoorn, all we could see for miles were ostrich farms, and not much else. But we were impressed with La Plume when we arrived. The room was nice, and the bathroom was particularly impressive to Rachel. The restaurant was also great, with views over expansive open vistas.

After our usual morning routine, we enjoyed a hearty breakfast and set off for our next destination—Montagu. We booked the accommodation over breakfast that morning. It’s funny how, when visiting a country, we normally do extensive research and book everything in advance for peace of mind. Yet here, we’d landed with a last-minute five-day stay in Cape Town, and since then, we’ve been completely comfortable leaving everything to the last minute without feeling stressed at all.

The drive continued to impress us, and we made light work of the 300 km, arriving in Montagu in about three hours. We were greeted by our host at the Vineyard Country House, a peaceful and charming spot in a lovely little town. The highlight of the property was a terrace overlooking the breathtaking mountains, which looked even more impressive in the soft dawn light. After another delicious breakfast and booking our accommodation for the evening, we were back on the road by 11 AM for a shorter leg of 200 km and a couple of hours to Franschhoek— a place we had skirted on our way down.

We arrived at the impressive facade of Basse Provence Country House, one of the many vineyards in the area. Like most vineyards, they have fantastic restaurants where you can enjoy delicious food while taking in the magnificent landscape. We spent some time wandering around the estate, which we both really enjoyed. That evening, we managed to book the final part of our trip, allowing us to savor another great breakfast and take a final stroll around the estate before heading off to our final stop.

We had tentatively planned to visit Addo Elephant Park, but after speaking to several amazing people we’d met along the way, our plans were solidified. By sheer fluke, I managed to secure a last-minute cancellation within the park, and as a surprise for Rachel, I booked it for the night before her birthday. The idea was to be up and ready before sunrise, long before the park opened to day visitors, to catch a glimpse of the animals at one of the many watering holes.

After a 120 km journey, with a stop in Gqeberha (formerly Port Elizabeth) for lunch—since there weren’t any good restaurants within a 50 km radius of the park—we finally arrived. After going through all of the rigorous security checks, we unlocked the door to our straw-roofed hut for the night. We had about 30 minutes of daylight left after the park had closed, so we decided to take a quick look around nearby.

We had to be careful, as there was almost no cell coverage until we reached the higher elevations. We were also advised not to get out of the car, as the park is home to four of the Big 5 most dangerous animals (rhinos aren’t indigenous to SA) and the trails were rough, so the thought of getting a puncture and spending the night in the car would have been less than ideal!

On our return to base, as we rounded the last bend, a young bull elephant stepped out of the bush just in front of us. It was my first elephant sighting in this kind of setting, and wow, what a humbling experience it was.

We woke early the following morning after a night filled with unfamiliar sounds. After preparing a breakfast of berries, nuts, and yogurt to go, we set off for our first watering hole. The park spans about 1,640 km², so spotting animals was going to be a matter of luck. The cats tend to be nocturnal, our best chance was at first light.

At the first watering hole, we were met by a couple of bush pig families and some black-backed jackals. In the half-light, it was difficult to make out other animals. The second watering hole was dry. We had been driving for a couple of hours when we decided to stop near a herd of zebra and a kudu and eat breakfast. They were too busy breakfasting to notice us, and it felt like such a privilege to quietly watch them.

The park’s speed limit was 40 km/h, but there was no chance of hitting that speed, as the gravel tracks were more like tank tracks. We weren’t sneaking up on anyone, but we didn’t mind, as we scanned the bush looking for animals.

After about four hours of driving, we came across a smaller watering hole with a small hide. As we were the only ones there, we made our way inside. When we arrived, we were both thrilled to be just 20 feet away from a family of elephants drinking. We may have missed bath time, but it didn’t matter. We weren’t lucky enough to see big cats, but this close encounter with such majestic creatures was more than enough.

We ended up staying an extra day on Leisure Isle—it was such a nice spot, and we were at risk of growing roots! But after packing up and visiting the “Food Lovers Market” to stock up on provisions, we got back on the N2 and drove just under 200 km, crossing from the Western to the Eastern Cape. About two hours later, we arrived at the gates of “Villa Verde” and found ourselves at the foot of what looked like a very large tree house. This would be our base for the next five days. We love having a bit of space, and this place checked all the boxes, offering a great vibe with stunning views over the Indian Ocean and the golden shoreline, which we later discovered was home to some beautiful beaches.

The following morning, we set off late, heading towards Tsitsikamma National Park on a cooler day that threatened rain. Our first stop was to see the infamous “Big Tree,” an 800+ year-old Yellowwood tree stretching over 36 meters high, with a circumference of 9 meters. We reached it via lovely walkways that snaked through a rainforest, which, even without the Big Tree, would have been worth the visit. From there, we continued further into the park to Storms River, a dramatic coastal area known for its stunning scenery. The mouth of the Storms River meets the Indian Ocean, and there’s a notable suspension bridge that offers incredible views of the cliffs that the river winds down into the ocean.

To get there, we had to climb up to the headlands, which was about a 2 km climb of mostly steps, with a few flat stretches, and only some scant tree cover. We were grateful for the cooler weather, as it made the climb much more fun. Once we reached the top, it was well worth the effort with amazing views as a reward.

On the way back, we stopped at Cape St. Francis, where we visited a very busy fish restaurant. The fish came straight from the small trawlers anchored in the quaint port, offering the freshest seafood we’ve had in a while. A perfect way to end a great day.

We left Mossel Bay after lunch and made our way back onto the N2, heading further east. The weather had been more unsettled the further east we traveled, and this continued as we drove the 100 km to Knysna. Along the way, we stopped at the “Food Lovers Market,” which always has a great selection of local fruits and vegetables.

Afterwards, we headed onto the narrow causeway to “Leisure Isle,” a small island about 4 km in circumference, located in the middle of a lagoon (which is actually an estuary). This would be our home for the next week. We’re staying in a cute loft apartment surrounded by colorful fauna and flora, and a gang of jovial birds.

After a restful night’s sleep, Rachel and I decided to take a closer look at the lagoon that I had glimpsed briefly the night before. As we walked down the ivy-lined path, we were met with a huge expanse of sand, where the night before there had been water—it was as though someone had pulled the plug. We walked for about an hour through the middle of the sand but could have easily continued longer. This place is simply beautiful. At the mouth of the estuary stand two headlands that, when the time is right, usher in and push out the cold waters of the Indian Ocean.

There was a devastating fire here in 2017 that completely razed the far mountain range, but today you wouldn’t know it. The fauna and flora have returned in full splendor, and the area is dotted with beautiful properties. We decided to take the “Feather Bed” nature tour, so named because in the early seafaring days, after months at sea, ships would anchor in the lagoon. The sailors would wake up the next morning to find themselves surrounded by the gentle waters, remarking that it felt as if they had slept on a bed of feathers.

After a short ferry ride, we got a closer look at the island, which offered some incredible views both out to sea and across the bay. The entrance to the estuary was once a busy shipping channel, but it was closed in 1951 as it had become too dangerous, with too many ships lost there. Today, however, it was an incredibly tranquil place to walk around and wonder about the sights that had been witnessed here.

After our walk, we made our way down to a small restaurant, chatting with an interesting guide along the way about his take on South Africa. We had a light lunch before heading back to the mainland.

Originally, we had planned to stay in Plettenberg Bay before deciding on Knysna, but since Plett has some fantastic walks and views, we made the 40-minute drive to spend a day there. One thing we’ve experienced quite a bit here is the sea fog, which occurs when warm air meets the cooler sea temperatures. The day we chose to visit was one of those days, but we managed to walk the beach, which is about an 8-10 km round trip. Plettenberg Bay is known to be very pretty, but after our walk with not much visibility, we opted to try a highly recommended Portuguese restaurant for an early dinner. The place was hosted by a South African version of “Gordon Ramsay,” which we found amusing, though I’m sure the terrified staff did not.

After a leisurely breakfast and farewells to our gracious hosts from the last four days, we “set sail” for Mossel Bay, continuing east along the Garden Route (N2). Our journey took us from the Over Berg back down to the cooler temperatures of the coast. During our travel along the N2, we noticed a fair bit of construction as they work on improving the road, with long stretches of highway reduced to a single lane. Signs warned that we might be stuck for up to 30 minutes or more as cars from the opposite direction passed through. Thankfully, our timing was pretty spot on, though we weren’t in any hurry. The other mystery along the way was the speed traps—I just couldn’t figure out where they were hiding! I suppose I’ll find out when I return the car.

We picked up provisions at the local “Food Lovers Market”—a paradise for fresh fruit and vegetables—and arrived in Mossel Bay about two hours later. After meeting our host, we settled into our home for the next week. Our place is situated on a point above Santos Beach, with a view of the Indian Ocean. We’ve taken things pretty easy since we’ve been here, but we’ve discovered some excellent places to eat and some fantastic coffee spots. Coffee is a big part of the culture here, and there are some quirky places to enjoy a cup.

Mossel Bay is steeped in history, and one of the most fascinating things for me is the “Postal Tree.” In 1500, a Portuguese sailor used it as a makeshift postbox, placing a letter in his shoe and tying it to a Milkwood tree to warn subsequent Portuguese fleets of impending danger. From there, sailors began using the tree to deliver and receive messages from around the world. It’s believed to be Africa’s first postal system and was declared a national monument in the late 1960s.

We’ve seen some beautiful locations while here, and one memorable day took us to Wilderness. Just off the N2, Wilderness is a small hamlet with a few restaurants, a couple of coffee shops, an ice cream parlour, a doctor’s office, and a gas station. To truly appreciate how beautiful this place is, you need to get above it. So, after a short drive up a mountain, we were treated to a panoramic view of both sides. On one side, we saw “The Map of Africa,” a land formation mysteriously carved out by the brown waters of the Kaaimans River, which has turned that color due to tannin from tree roots. It bears a remarkable resemblance to the African continent. On the other side, we found people sitting on a grassy mound, seemingly in a hypnotic state, gazing at what we both agreed was the most incredible coastal view we’ve seen since we arrived.

This area is also a popular spot for paragliders, who launch themselves off the side and soar along the light winds, eventually landing on the beach—what an amazing experience that must be!

We’ve truly enjoyed our stay in Onrus; everyone we’ve met here has been wonderful. We didn’t even mind too much about getting well and truly beaten by the Kleinmond Tennis Club—they were so welcoming and far more humble than I would have been if the tables were turned! After thanking Ryno, one of our gracious hosts, we set off east along the N2, heading into the foothills of the Langeberg Mountains.

When we left Onrus at midday, the temperature was a comfortable 24 degrees, but by the time we arrived in Swellendam two hours later, the temperature had climbed to a scorching 40 degrees. After unloading the car, we drove into the quaint town of Swellendam, which is centered along a single avenue. Founded in 1745 by Dutch settlers, the town still boasts beautiful whitewashed stone houses with thatched roofs, with a rather imposing Dutch Reform church at its center. It’s the third-oldest town in South Africa and became known for its wagon building and repairs, which is why the road is so wide—wide enough to turn a wagon around!

We also took a hike around the dams, planning to swim, but the brown water (due to root tannin) was a bit off-putting.

After breakfast the next morning, we set off for De Hoop, National Park, wondering if our small Toyota Cross could handle the 50km gravel track, which is also used by heavy farming equipment. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but as we drove through the vast expanse of farmland, Rachel assured me that the scenery was quite beautiful, though I was too busy concentrating on dodging larger rocks and potholes. But when we arrived, it was well worth the journey.

The park spans 340 square kilometers of animal reserve, set amid stunning fynbos (shrubland and heathland). It was incredible to see the animals, many with their young, thriving in this protected space. We walked along one of the many trails that cut through the rocky headland and into the fynbos, taking in the tranquility of the area. There are also some small pensions in the park, and if you book in advance, you can stay here to fully immerse yourself in the beauty of this place.

After about 30 minutes of driving to the coastal side of the park, we reached the marine reserve. Pristine sand dunes stretched across the face of the Indian Ocean as far as the eye could see. It’s one of the largest protected stretches of coastline in Africa, and it was truly stunning. In the spring, people come here to witness the thousands of whales migrating up the coast, adding another layer of awe to this already breathtaking place.

We had planned to have a late lunch at the tiny coastal restaurant, but we got talking to an interesting lady who shared her insights about some of the places we were thinking of visiting next. By the time we reached the restaurant, it was closed—but we were both too relaxed to be bothered. Instead, we simply enjoyed the peaceful surroundings, reflecting on how great the day had been.

We set off mid-morning from the cottage and headed back towards Cape Town along the R44 coastal road, making our way to Betty’s Bay, which was high on Rachel’s list of places to visit. We arrived just after mid-morning and decided to visit the main beach first to stretch our legs. We parked in a small lot, unsure of what to expect, but after a short stroll over some sand dunes, we were greeted by a vast expanse of white sand in a beautiful bay, which we mostly had to ourselves. We spent just over an hour walking up and down the beach. I could’ve easily stayed there all day, but we had more to explore.

Our next stop was Stony Point, which intrigued us both. A few years ago, it was home to 1,600 pairs of African penguins, which are found only along the southern coast of Africa and Namibia. Today, fewer than 900 pairs remain due to both man-made and environmental impacts. The penguins were smaller than I expected, but they were still absolutely fascinating to watch. Though not very active in the midday heat, they were mostly resting, but it was still delightful to see them. Further along, we found a colony of cormorants who seemed to have claimed the rocky peninsula as their own.

We ended up chatting with a group of travelers, who, after learning we were heading east, recommended a few places to stay and things to do. Interestingly, our trip seems to be increasingly shaped by local recommendations—something I absolutely love! Afterward, we stopped for coffee at a local spot that was another recommendation. The coffee here is amazing, and it’s quickly become our main source of local intel.

Next, we arrived at the Harold Porter Botanical Garden, nestled at the foot of the mountains. The garden offered beautiful fauna, with trails leading into the foothills. We took a short hike to a lovely waterfall and had an unexpected encounter with a family of baboons feeding on the reeds. It was a little unnerving, especially since they weren’t the friendliest-looking mammals, and they had their young with them. We didn’t get too close, but it was still fascinating to watch them from a distance.

About two hours from Onrus, we arrived at Babylonstoren, one of the oldest Cape Dutch farms dating back to 1692, set at the foot of Simonsberg in the Franschhoek wine valley. The estate has been meticulously restored to reflect how it would have looked back in the day, complete with a beautiful fruit and vegetable garden designed by the French architect famous for his work at the Monastery of Notre Dame. If you’re willing to sell your firstborn, you can stay here, too!

Since we were past the age of needing to sell children, we opted for a walk around the estate and lunch at the garden’s “farm-to-fork” restaurant. I think I can safely say it was the best salad I’ve ever had—and I eat a lot of salad! We spent a very hot afternoon exploring this incredible place, discovering some truly unique highlights along the way. One of the most memorable features was the stunning collection of roses from around the world, housed in a 100-meter-long puff adder-shaped structure. The healing garden was another peaceful spot, offering a moment of tranquility amidst the natural beauty. After soaking in all that Babylonstoren had to offer, we set off for the Franschhoek Pass. Despite the late hour, the drive was filled with breathtaking scenery, and we were even treated to another sighting of baboons along the way. It had truly been another unforgettable day, brimming with beautiful landscapes, fascinating wildlife, and delicious food.

We picked up the car from the business district, which was only about a 10-minute walk away. The process was straightforward, and before long, we were on our way, leaving the Hertz car park and heading back to the apartment to load up the car. After a quick coffee, we were finally on the road, heading east out of Cape Town. For the first 10 km, the drive wasn’t particularly exciting, though the ever-present Hottentots-Holland Mountain range provided a stunning backdrop.

Soon after, the traffic lights (called “robots” in South Africa) stopped, and we were able to enjoy the open land that stretched out before us. The scenery quickly transformed into something breathtaking. The N2 motorway, which we would be using for the majority of our Garden Route journey, took us through wide-open landscapes, and after just under two hours, we arrived in Onrus—a former whaling town on the famous Whaling Coast. Every spring, people come here to witness the whales pass through on their journey to Mozambique, Tanzania, and Madagascar to breed, between December and June.

We’re staying in a simple coastal cottage, which perfectly suits our needs and is a relaxed base for the next couple of weeks. We’re lucky to have two perfect coastal walks nearby. If you turn left, it takes you along a rugged coastline for miles. If you turn right, the coastal path leads you to Onrus Beach, a popular surfing spot, with benches positioned at great vantage points to watch the action below. The people of Onrus have been incredibly friendly, and no more so than the folks at a small local coffee shop where we’ve met some of the locals who have helped us plan the next leg of our journey. We’ve even been invited to play tennis at the Kleinmond Tennis Club, though we did warn them not to expect any tennis prodigies, as we haven’t played in a couple of years.

Hermanus is about 10 minutes away, a much larger town compared to Onrus, which has only a few stores and restaurants. Hermanus is a charming town full of boutiques and cute little restaurants. It also offers some fantastic coastal walks. While the Atlantic Ocean isn’t the friendliest for swimming, it’s undeniably stunning to look at. We enjoyed walking from the old harbour to the new harbour, soaking in the sights. On Saturdays, there’s a vibrant market where local artisans showcase their work, and it’s a popular spot for locals to enjoy tasty street food while listening to playlists that seemed like they were created just for us. The vibe was fantastic, and it was great to meet and chat with the people. We absolutely love this place!

A driver arrived outside our apartment to take us to the dock for the ferry to Robben Island. Although it was an unusual way to spend my birthday, I had been keen to learn more about the island, its history & of course Nelson Mandela. During the ferry ride, we watched a video about Robben Island’s dark past, as it had been a place of torture and political imprisonment since the early 17th century. About 30 minutes later, we arrived at the island and boarded one of three buses that would take us on a tour around the island. Our guide was incredibly knowledgeable about the key political prisoners, and he was a captivating orator, keeping everyone hanging on his every word. He shared stories of the extreme mental and physical torture the prisoners endured, and at times, I struggled to comprehend the depths of their suffering. He also gave us detailed accounts of the political prisoners, all of whom, despite coming from different political factions, played significant roles in the eventual downfall of apartheid.

One story that particularly resonated with me was about Robert Sobukwe, one of the first political prisoners after the Sharpeville Massacre. He was deemed such a threat to the apartheid regime that he was isolated in his own prison building, away from other prisoners with whom he could potentially communicate and influence. Yet, he was still close enough to hear and see them.

The final part of the tour was led by an ex-political prisoner who had been imprisoned toward the end of Nelson Mandela’s time on the island. He emphasized that while Mandela was their leader and an incredible man, the struggle for freedom was always a collective effort. He spoke of the harsh prison life, recounting the brutal regime that was enforced by guards who had been brainwashed into believing they were serving their country’s duty.

The final prisoners left the island in 1991, with the prison formally closing in 1996.

I hadn’t really considered how the visit would affect me emotionally, but it turned out to be a deeply moving experience. I found myself questioning how people could inflict such horrors on their fellow human beings—and for what purpose? The visit to Robben Island was a sobering reminder of the incredible sacrifices made by those who fought for justice and freedom. It left a profound and lasting impression on me.