We decided to use the same transfer company to take us to the airport, as we were leaving Argentina and entering Brazil, flying out of Foz do Iguaçu. We had seen firsthand the lengthy queues at both borders, and as I mentioned before, the tour companies are expert at navigating this process, swiftly depositing us at the airport with time to spare.
The flight landed in Rio de Janeiro around two hours later. Uber has worked well in each of the South American countries we have visited, and Brazil was no exception. Apparently the traffic was light in the early afternoon, so we pulled up outside our apartment building and were welcomed, I think, by our concierge, who, after taking our passport details, handed us the keys.
We are staying in Ipanema, in a very comfortable, bohemian apartment, positioned about five minutes either way between Ipanema and Copacabana beaches, both of which we were looking forward to seeing.
We arrived on a Monday to rain, and it didn’t stop until Friday. Not wanting to ruin our first glimpse of the places we had come to see, and with Rachel busy with work, we decided to wait it out. Instead, we explored the inner, slightly soggy urban areas, found a very good Aussie coffee shop, and shared stories with other travellers.
When the skies eventually cleared, we made our way onto Ipanema Beach and set off along the white sands. Brazil has a tropical climate, so even when it was raining it was still hot, but under the midday sun it was roasting. This did not seem to deter anyone. Some sheltered under umbrellas, but everywhere you looked people were playing Altinha, a game where you use everything except your hands to keep the ball in the air. It’s great to watch.
The place is full of energy, and by the time we had walked from one end to the other, the beach was in full swing.
The following day we found ourselves in the bohemian neighbourhood of Santa Teresa, with its yellow trams, before making our way to the famed Escadaria Selarón, the colourful mosaic staircase that leads down towards the lively district of Lapa. There, we caught a live samba show in one of the many parks, where hundreds of people moved as one, completely under the spell of the music.
Later that day we had tickets for the busy little train that climbs Corcovado Mountain to the statue of Christ the Redeemer. It was another humbling experience. The statue is an astonishing sight, around one hundred feet across, standing high above the city below.
Copacabana feels like the more polished of the two beaches. It is set up for both day and night, with snack bars lining the busy promenade. It also felt a little narrower than Ipanema, but just as lively, with people of all shapes and sizes enjoying the beach. The sounds of samba and bossa nova drift through the air, unmistakably Brazilian.
I had also booked the cable car up Sugarloaf Mountain for views across the city and to catch the sunset. Unfortunately, by the time we reached the summit, the clouds had rolled in. There were brief moments when they parted, revealing glimpses of the city and the many islands surrounding Rio, including a view across to Christ the Redeemer, which at times appeared to be suspended in the clouds.
It is a city where, despite man’s efforts to shape it, nature still feels very much in control. Green space is everywhere, and the Atlantic Forest continues to weave its way through the urban landscape.
I’ll be honest, I had my reservations when we first arrived under grey skies and rain. But Rio is a city that does not take itself too seriously. It is a multicultural place where anyone could be Brazilian, but those who are seem to move with a rhythm and confidence that feels entirely its own.
Dream Chasers 