There were no direct flights to Iguazú from Mendoza, so after another early morning pickup we headed to the small airport in Mendoza and boarded the first of two flights. We flew back to Buenos Aires before a short wait for our onward flight to Iguazú, still on the Argentinian side. It was the most direct option available, but it still took just over four and a half hours. That said, the local airports are very easy to navigate and so far everything has worked like clockwork for us.
Our luggage was first through, which is always a relief when bags have been transferred between aircraft. We were then met by our driver and set off for the hotel.
The first thing you notice here is the humidity. The temperature was about the same as it had been in Mendoza, but the humidity made it feel at least five degrees warmer. We were in the Atlantic Rainforest after all.
We were staying for the next four days at Jungle Lodge. When we opened the door to our small suite we were greeted with a wonderful view of the Iguazú River. Looking to the left was Paraguay and to the right was Brazil, although all we could see was jungle.
We didn’t do much on the day we arrived. We had an early dinner and turned in early as the following day would be a full one with an early start.
After a good breakfast our guide arrived and off we went. Based on advice from several people we had met along the way, we decided to book all our tours in advance. The guides have preferential entry through the borders and into the parks, along with access to certain routes inside them. The parks also limit visitor numbers.
Even so, it still took about an hour and a half before we found ourselves boarding the small eco train for a slow thirty minute ride to our first stop, followed by a two kilometre walk filled with anticipation and excitement.
The walkways snake across the Iguazú River, which translates simply as Big River. It is a slow build up. As you look out on either side you see tufts of greenery and large geometric rocks scattered across the surprisingly clear water.
Then the sound begins to grow louder. A mist appears as you turn the final corner and arrive at the Garganta del Diablo, the Devil’s Throat, where all the water suddenly falls away.
This is where most of the water in the river converges and then disappears, with around 6.5 million litres flowing every second. It is incredible. The falls are wider than Victoria Falls and taller than Niagara.
The Devil’s Throat forms a giant horseshoe and a walkway brings you as close as possible to the edge and a view into the abyss. As you would expect, you get completely soaked, which only adds further to the experience.
A friend had told me beforehand that he found the place deeply moving. I can confirm that it is both emotional and humbling.
We then boarded the eco train again and travelled to the mid station. From there we followed the paths through the jungle and gradually made our way downwards. Walking under the leafy canopy offered welcome relief from the intense sun. Along the way we took in the flora and fauna and glimpsed wildlife, with one remarkable view after another.
There are more than 275 waterfalls here. The Argentinian side accounts for about eighty percent of the area and allows you to get very close to many of them as they cascade gracefully into the river below.
We stopped for lunch and spent some time sharing travel stories with Franco and Anna from Rome, who like us were soaking in the experience.
After lunch we continued on for another three to four kilometres, which again offered some truly extraordinary views.
The following day we visited the Brazilian side of the falls, crossing both the Argentinian and Brazilian borders.
The day before we had worked to see the many intricate sections of the falls. On the Brazilian side you gain a broader perspective. These are the sweeping postcard views.
It is just under a two kilometre walk along a designated pathway that overlooks the Argentinian side. In a way it felt like cheating. All the views are laid out in front of you without having to make much effort. But I have to admit the scenes are breathtaking.
From this side you see the entire sweep of the Iguazú. You lose some of the angles that you experience in Argentina, but by stepping back you can take it all in at once. It ties together everything we had seen the day before.
The walk ends with a viewpoint at the open end of the horseshoe. From this vantage point we were looking up into the Devil’s Throat, with waterfalls to the left and right and water droplets creating rainbows. It was one of the most incredible things I have ever seen.
We were back at the lodge by early afternoon and spent some time resting by the pool before the inevitable jungle downpour arrived later in the day.
We had managed to avoid the rain on both sides of the falls. It certainly lived up to its billing as one of the world’s seven natural wonders, and it was a wonderful way to spend Rachel’s birthday.
Dream Chasers 