It was just over a two-hour flight from Calama back to Santiago. Rachel had been struggling with a bit of altitude sickness, so although we both really enjoyed the Atacama, it was good to be back at sea level.
I had arranged a transfer from the airport to take us to our next destination, a drive west to the Pacific coast. Along the way we passed through built-up urban pockets intertwined with arable land and vineyards. Just over two hours later we arrived in Viña del Mar, where we would be staying for the next seven days, and were met by our gracious host.
The apartment sits right on the front line, with uninterrupted views up and down the coastline and out over the powerful Pacific. As we continue to travel and explore different countries, having something interesting to look out over has become very important to us.
The apartment blocks are built along a steep cliff face, with the town set further back. Around ten private funiculars continually ferry residents up and down. Because we are staying at sea level, you don’t get a true sense of how many buildings are tucked into the hillside. There are only a handful of small hotels here.
Our host extended his hospitality further by inviting us for drinks with him and his charming partner. We spent the evening swapping life and travel stories. Much of our onward travel planning has been shaped by the generous people we meet, and once again we left with helpful tips and local insights.
One thing that takes some getting used to is the sound of the Pacific crashing against the shoreline, which drowns out almost everything else.
We have a small pop-up coffee wagon across the road and a few nearby restaurants, but everything else is about a thirty-minute walk to the left of the apartment. Turning right was a little precarious at first, with narrow paths and traffic to dodge, but halfway along it opens into a walkway that passes several beaches and a cluster of houses carved into the rocks. The path stretches all the way to Concón, which has a relaxed surf-town feel.
I’ve become somewhat transfixed by the pelican colonies, of which there are many. One rock in particular has captured my attention. The lower level is occupied by a small group of seals, while the upper level is home to the pelicans. I find myself sitting on the wall watching them at least three times a day.
We booked a tour of Valparaíso for Saturday. Our host assured us it was the safest way to see the “Jewel of the Pacific” and cultural capital of Chile. Before the opening of the Panama Canal, it was one of South America’s wealthiest cities, but it has faced difficult times since then and has well-documented safety concerns. As our guide, a proud local, was quick to point out, the people are fighting back.
We took one of the funiculars up to the old town. There are more than fifteen of them, though if you prefer to walk, there are plenty of staircases to choose from. The old town oozes bohemian culture, with steep streets and colourful houses, and vibrant murals that bring the place to life. Our guide seemed to know all the artists, who make up a large part of the local community. I even bought a small painting.
We finished the day with a late lunch at an unassuming restaurant, where the excellent chef was the son of a local fisherman. It was easily the best meal we’ve had since arriving in Chile.
Dream Chasers 