After a string of terrible sleep scores, which are par for the course. When we’re on the move, I’m still undecided about whether these Oura rings are a good thing or not. We left our hotel, which sits just above the main city, and made our way down into the heart of San Sebastián. We were both excited, not just to explore a new part of Spain, but to reunite with friends who once felt more like surrogate parents to us.
Dake and Yvonne were a steady presence during our early years in the Bahamas, offering their wisdom and calm as Rachel and I found our footing and started a family. Dake’s kids, Dake Jr. and Laura were away studying in the U.S, as were Yvonne’s. back then, while we navigated the often choppy waters of young adulthood. Dake even gave Rachel away at our impromptu wedding, and both he and Yvonne are godparents to Seb, roles they have always taken seriously. Yvonne’s pancakes were legendary, and Seb quickly learned he could trade morning cuddles for treats.
The contrast between the evening before and the following morning was remarkable. We had arrived under the cover of darkness, but in the daylight we were greeted by a breathtaking side of Spain we hadn’t seen before. San Sebastián is surrounded by forested mountains and sits gracefully along the dramatic Bay of Biscay. And what a bay it is, but more on that later.
Parking in the city is limited, and what little there is tends to be reserved for residents, which is fair enough. So we found a car park, left the car, and made our way through the charming city to locate the family’s hotel. The whole crew was there: Dake, Yvonne, Dake Jr., Laura, and their partners, Jimmy and Ben. Dake Jr. and Laura had organised the trip as a surprise for their dad’s birthday. It was a return to his father’s roots, a journey back to the town he had once left behind to begin a new life in the Caribbean. They had even managed to track down relatives, with a reunion planned for later in the trip. It was, without question, a meaningful and emotional occasion.
Seeing everyone again felt surreal at first, but within minutes it was as if no time had passed. In truth, it had been about seventeen years since we were last together. Laura’s partner, Ben, a self-proclaimed foodie, had done his homework and booked us a table at Bodegón Alejandro. It was their second visit, so we already had high expectations, and even after just the appetisers we knew we were in for something special. The food was exceptional, but it was the company and conversation that made the meal truly memorable.
After lunch, we spent a few hours wandering the city. This was our first time in northern Spain, and we were struck by its atmosphere. San Sebastián is only thirty minutes from Biarritz and sits close to the French border, which gives the city a distinct multicultural flavour. There’s a strong Parisian influence, with touches of Gothic architecture scattered throughout. We really liked it.
Later that evening, after a quick change at our hotel, we picked up Dake and Yvonne and drove about twenty-five minutes to the picturesque town of Getaria for dinner at Kaia Kaipe, a well-regarded seafood restaurant perched above the small port. The views were stunning, and the food was another highlight of the trip. After dropping them back at their hotel, we said our goodbyes. The next part of their journey would take them to Ampuero, where they planned to meet long-lost family members for the first time and we didn’t want to intrude. We all promised not to let so much time pass before the next reunion.
Not wanting our reflective mood to linger too long, we set off the next morning for another day of exploring. The sun was shining, and after breakfast in the city, we walked along the famous La Concha Beach, considered one of the most beautiful in Europe. Its reputation is well-earned, thanks to its setting and history. The beach runs about a mile from end to end.
We took the funicular up Monte Igueldo for panoramic views over the city and spent a couple of hours exploring both sides of the mountain. On our way back down, we walked once more along the beach, and this time we were treated to a surprise dolphin show, as a few playful pods had made their way into the bay.
Dream Chasers 