We had tentatively planned to visit Addo Elephant Park, but after speaking to several amazing people we’d met along the way, our plans were solidified. By sheer fluke, I managed to secure a last-minute cancellation within the park, and as a surprise for Rachel, I booked it for the night before her birthday. The idea was to be up and ready before sunrise, long before the park opened to day visitors, to catch a glimpse of the animals at one of the many watering holes.
After a 120 km journey, with a stop in Gqeberha (formerly Port Elizabeth) for lunch—since there weren’t any good restaurants within a 50 km radius of the park—we finally arrived. After going through all of the rigorous security checks, we unlocked the door to our straw-roofed hut for the night. We had about 30 minutes of daylight left after the park had closed, so we decided to take a quick look around nearby.
We had to be careful, as there was almost no cell coverage until we reached the higher elevations. We were also advised not to get out of the car, as the park is home to four of the Big 5 most dangerous animals (rhinos aren’t indigenous to SA) and the trails were rough, so the thought of getting a puncture and spending the night in the car would have been less than ideal!
On our return to base, as we rounded the last bend, a young bull elephant stepped out of the bush just in front of us. It was my first elephant sighting in this kind of setting, and wow, what a humbling experience it was.
We woke early the following morning after a night filled with unfamiliar sounds. After preparing a breakfast of berries, nuts, and yogurt to go, we set off for our first watering hole. The park spans about 1,640 km², so spotting animals was going to be a matter of luck. The cats tend to be nocturnal, our best chance was at first light.
At the first watering hole, we were met by a couple of bush pig families and some black-backed jackals. In the half-light, it was difficult to make out other animals. The second watering hole was dry. We had been driving for a couple of hours when we decided to stop near a herd of zebra and a kudu and eat breakfast. They were too busy breakfasting to notice us, and it felt like such a privilege to quietly watch them.
The park’s speed limit was 40 km/h, but there was no chance of hitting that speed, as the gravel tracks were more like tank tracks. We weren’t sneaking up on anyone, but we didn’t mind, as we scanned the bush looking for animals.
After about four hours of driving, we came across a smaller watering hole with a small hide. As we were the only ones there, we made our way inside. When we arrived, we were both thrilled to be just 20 feet away from a family of elephants drinking. We may have missed bath time, but it didn’t matter. We weren’t lucky enough to see big cats, but this close encounter with such majestic creatures was more than enough.
Dream Chasers 