We’ve truly enjoyed our stay in Onrus; everyone we’ve met here has been wonderful. We didn’t even mind too much about getting well and truly beaten by the Kleinmond Tennis Club—they were so welcoming and far more humble than I would have been if the tables were turned! After thanking Ryno, one of our gracious hosts, we set off east along the N2, heading into the foothills of the Langeberg Mountains.
When we left Onrus at midday, the temperature was a comfortable 24 degrees, but by the time we arrived in Swellendam two hours later, the temperature had climbed to a scorching 40 degrees. After unloading the car, we drove into the quaint town of Swellendam, which is centered along a single avenue. Founded in 1745 by Dutch settlers, the town still boasts beautiful whitewashed stone houses with thatched roofs, with a rather imposing Dutch Reform church at its center. It’s the third-oldest town in South Africa and became known for its wagon building and repairs, which is why the road is so wide—wide enough to turn a wagon around!
We also took a hike around the dams, planning to swim, but the brown water (due to root tannin) was a bit off-putting.
After breakfast the next morning, we set off for De Hoop, National Park, wondering if our small Toyota Cross could handle the 50km gravel track, which is also used by heavy farming equipment. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but as we drove through the vast expanse of farmland, Rachel assured me that the scenery was quite beautiful, though I was too busy concentrating on dodging larger rocks and potholes. But when we arrived, it was well worth the journey.
The park spans 340 square kilometers of animal reserve, set amid stunning fynbos (shrubland and heathland). It was incredible to see the animals, many with their young, thriving in this protected space. We walked along one of the many trails that cut through the rocky headland and into the fynbos, taking in the tranquility of the area. There are also some small pensions in the park, and if you book in advance, you can stay here to fully immerse yourself in the beauty of this place.
After about 30 minutes of driving to the coastal side of the park, we reached the marine reserve. Pristine sand dunes stretched across the face of the Indian Ocean as far as the eye could see. It’s one of the largest protected stretches of coastline in Africa, and it was truly stunning. In the spring, people come here to witness the thousands of whales migrating up the coast, adding another layer of awe to this already breathtaking place.
We had planned to have a late lunch at the tiny coastal restaurant, but we got talking to an interesting lady who shared her insights about some of the places we were thinking of visiting next. By the time we reached the restaurant, it was closed—but we were both too relaxed to be bothered. Instead, we simply enjoyed the peaceful surroundings, reflecting on how great the day had been.
Dream Chasers 