The three of us set off toward Famagusta—known as Gazimagusa to the Turks—with the aim of visiting the part of the city that was abandoned 50 years ago and only recently reopened to the public. In 1974, after a failed Greek coup, the Turkish army invaded Cyprus under the pretext of restoring order, advancing from the north to the south. With advanced warning, around 40,000 people fled the city, leaving behind homes and businesses in what had been a prosperous area. The Turkish forces took control of Famagusta, establishing the division between the Greek and Turkish parts of Cyprus that still exists today, even though this division is not officially recognized outside of Turkey.
After a half-hour drive, we followed a few cars into a large parking area. From there, we joined small groups of people heading toward what turned out to be the entry point into the abandoned city. Even though it was late morning and the sun was shining in full 30-degree heat, there was something undeniably eerie about the place as we walked. A military presence still lingers, albeit somewhat discreet. Visitors are only allowed to walk along the streets and pavements, with no access to the buildings themselves. Cars, except for the occasional military vehicle, are also forbidden.
Walking through the ghost town, it’s hard to imagine what it must have been like for those who had to leave everything behind, knowing they would never return. The decaying buildings, overtaken by nature, stand as silent witnesses to a once-thriving city. As we continued to explore, remnants of the past were everywhere. Old signs promoting familiar brands from the 60s and 70s, some of which are still in existence today, gave us a glimpse into how life might have been back then. We even made our way to the famous stretch of beach that, in its heyday, attracted the rich and famous.
Despite the somber history, it was a fascinating experience. There’s something both haunting and captivating about walking through a place frozen in time, and it’s hard not to feel the weight of the tragedy that befell the people of Famagusta.
Later, we explored some of the old parts of Famagusta itself, with its fortified walls encircling the port and ancient religious buildings that have stood the test of time. From there, we ventured about 6 km outside of Kyrenia to Bella Pais, a charming little village with the ruins of a medieval 14th-century abbey. The abbey, set amid impressive gardens, was well worth a visit, and we took our time wandering through its historic grounds. Afterward, we found a local spot to eat. It wasn’t the restaurant we had originally hoped for, but the food was delicious, and the hospitality made it a lovely end to the day.
Dream Chasers 