The charm of Ragusa & Modica

We’ve settled in quickly here in Santa Maria del Focallo, on the southern tip of Sicily. It’s about 100 meters from one of the inviting stretches of sandy beach, and we make that short walk every morning. So far, the blue flag beaches have been perfect for swimming.

We’re approximately an hour away from Ragusa, a town rich in history and the birthplace of Baroque architecture. As we approached Ragusa, we were greeted with an absolutely stunning view across an ancient ravine, where incredible buildings seemed to cling to the walls of the gorge. We decided to enter through “Ibla,” the lower part of town, and found a place to park. One of the town guides then pointed us in the direction of the highlights. Adding to the spectacle, Ibla is accessed by an imposing staircase that leads to beautiful winding streets and alleyways. Finally, the delightful “Basilica di San Giorgio,” situated on top of around 200 steps, came into view. Wherever we turned, the charm of the buildings captivated us.

Most of this area, including Noto, Modica, Scicli, and Catania, was rebuilt in 1693 after a terrible earthquake struck the eastern side of Sicily. However, Ibla wasn’t completely destroyed and still retains pockets of Gothic and Medieval architecture. After spending several hours immersed in the charm of this place, we stopped for a delicious late “feast” before returning home to enjoy the remaining sunlight. Our host, Cicero, has made us feel incredibly welcome, even bringing us delicious fruits and vegetables from his garden. When we mentioned our plan to visit Modica, he insisted on personally showing us his hometown.

Modica is nestled at the bottom of the same gorge as Ragusa, and as you approach, you’re met with an equally impressive view of breathtaking architecture, with the centerpiece being the “Church of San Giorgio.” Yes, there is a church with the same name in both Ragusa and Modica, honoring the same saint but on different days to maintain their individual significance. Modica is connected by a series of steps that link the upper and lower parts of the town, revealing hidden alleys and marvelous buildings. For about three hours, we strolled around while Cicero proudly explained the wonders of this beautiful town.

Since our arrival, the temperature has consistently exceeded 35 degrees. After hours of exploration, we needed to refuel. We were recommended to try “Ornato,” one of the best fish restaurants we’ve been to in a while, where everything is homemade and is delicious. After complimenting the chef, we headed to what Cicero claimed to be the best gelato in the area for Rachel. She promptly declared it the best she’d ever tasted, and she’s no stranger to ice cream. We also met a Turophile, who introduced us to some of Sicilys delicious cheeses, many of which we ended up leaving with. Our final stop was the famous chocolatiers “Bonajuto”, who have been making chocolate the same way for over 400 years. Needless to say, Rachel stocked up on their delectable treats!

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