Sidi Bou Said has been around since the early 12th century when it began as a religious settlement. However, it didn’t become the bohemian paradise it is today until the Husainid dynasty arrived in the early 18th century, bringing and attracting the finest musicians and writers of the time. This laid the foundation for Sidi to be recognized as an international haunt for artists, more about that later.
Sidi Bou Said, like Byrsa, is set high up overlooking the Gulf of Tunis, which means you have to climb through the town to reach the main attraction, the “Palace Dar Nejma Ezzahra”. You enter through a set of large yellow arched doors decorated with typical Tunisian designs. From there, you wander under the shade of cypress trees laced with vibrant bougainvillea and catch glimpses of the sea before reaching a sprawling ranch-style building whitewashed with blue shutters, doors, and accents (all the buildings throughout the old town follow this theme).
The building was commissioned by Baron d’Erlanger, a wealthy French musicologist/artist who spent time there with his wife and son, working hard to cement Sidi’s status as a favorite haunt for international artists.
Upon entering the palace, you’re immediately drawn to the incredibly ornate carved ceilings fashioned by local Tunisian artists using locally sourced materials. There are quite a few themes running throughout, but it all seems to work. The palace also features a musical instrument museum showcasing both African and other instruments, which was impressive by today’s standards, but must have been incredible at the time. It was a really chilled place and very relaxing to mooch about.
After exploring the palace, we wound our way down through the beautiful little town which bares a striking resemblance to Santorini, before making our way down to the marina to sit and stare out across the Gulf, and watch the young sailors learning how to master their Opi’s (Optimus)….remembering when Seb and Christien first learnt to sail.
Dream Chasers 